f ft 0,» i.

<7)

a4hVu.i^

30

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C^tA^(Ci4t:.

A

DESCRIPTION

O F T H E

SCOTLAND.

CONTAINING A Full Account of thtir Situation, Extent, Soils, Produft,

Harbours, Bays, TiJes, Anchonn^-Places, and Fifheries.

The Antient and Modern Government, Religion and Culloms of the Inhabitants ; particularly of their Druids, Heathen Temples, Monafteries, Churches, Chappels, Antiquities, Monuments, forts. Caves, and other Curiofities of Art and Nature : Of their Admi- rable and Expeditious Way of Curing moft Difeafeis by Simples of their own Produft»

A Particular Account of the Second Sight, or Faculty of forefecing things to come, by way of Vifion, fo common among them.

A Brief Hint ot Methods to improve Trade in that Country, both by Sea and Land.

With a New M A P of the Whole, defcribing the Harbours, An- choring-Places, and dangerous Rocks, for the benefit of Sailors.

To which is added, A Brief Defcription of the Ifles of Orkney and Scbetland.

By M MARTIN, Gent.

The Second Edition, very much Corrected.

LONDON, Printed for A. B E L L at the Crofs-Keys and Bible in Cornhill ; T. Yarn AM and J. Osborn in Lombard-Jlreet % W. Ta y l o r at the Ship, and J. B A K E R and T. Wa r N E r at the Black Boy in Paternojier-Row. M. DCC. XVI.

(iii)

To His Royal Highnefs Prince GEORGE of Denmark, Lord High Admiral of Eng-^ land and Ireland, and of all Her Majefty's Plantations, and Generaliflimo of all Her Majefty's Forces, 6^c.

May it pleafe Your Royal Highnefs,

AMONGST the KumeroHS Croud of Congratulating Jddrejfers^ the IJlari" ders de/crthed in the following Sheets prefume to approach Your ^yal Terfon : They can noiPy without fujpicion of Infidelity to the a 1 Queen

iv * Dedication.

Qiieen of England, pay their Duty to a Danifh Trmce, to whofe ^redecejfors all of them fort7ierly belonged.

THEY can hoafl that they are honoured. with the Sepulchres of eight i\jng5 of Nor- way, who at this day J with forty eight IQngs of Scotland, and four of Ireland, lie en^ tomh'd in the Jfiand of Jona 3 a Vlace famd then for fome peculiar SanBity,

THEY prefume that it is owing to their great dijlance from the Imperial Seat^ rather than their want of KatiVe Worthy that their Jflands haVe been fo little regarded 3 iphich by Improyement might render a conftderable Ac" ceffion of Strength and (S^ches to the Crown^ as appears by a Scheme annexed to the foU lowing Treatife, They haVe fufferd hitherto under the want of a powerful and aJfeSlionate Matron 5 TroVidence feems to haVe given them a Natural Claim to Your Royal Highnefs : Jnd th it be almofl Trefumption for Jo ftnful a Nation to hope for fo great a 'Bleffing^ they do humbly join their frayers to God, that

the

Dedication. v

the TroteBion which they hope for from two princes of Jo much native Worth and Goodnefsy might he continud in Your ^yal J^ofterity to all Generations. So frays.

May it pleafe Your Royal Highnefs,

Your Highnefs's mofl: Humble and mod Obedient Servant,

M. Martin.

^ 5

( vi )

THE

PREFACE

THE Weftcrn Iflands of Scotland, which make the Subje6t of the following Book, were call d by the antient Geographers urEbtuUj and He- hrid'^s i but they knew fo little of them, that they neither agreed in their Name nor Number. Perhaps it is peculiar to thofc Ifles, that they have never been de- fcrib d till now, by any Man that was a Native of the Country, or had traveled them. They were indeed touch'd by So- eih'ms^ Bifhop Lejly^ 'Buchanan^ and Johi' Jlon, in their Hiftories of Scotland -^ but none of thofe Authors were ever there in Perfon : fo chat v^hat they wrote con- cerning 'em, was upon truft from others. (Buchanan, it is true, had his Information from Donald Monro, who had been in

many

7l)e Preface. vii

many of 'em 5 and therefore his Account is the beft that has hitherto appeared, but it muft be own'd that it is very imper- fed : that Great Man defign d the Hifto- ry, and not the Geography of h''s Coan- try, and therefore in him it was pardona- ble. Befides, fince his time there's a great Change in the Humour of the World, and by confecjuence in the way of V^^riting. Natural and Experimental Philofophy has been much improved fince his days 5 and therefore Defcriptions of Countries, with- out the Natural Hiftory of /erti, are now juftly reckoned to be defedlive.

THIS I had a particular regard cQ, in the following Defcription, and have every where taken, notice of the Nature of the Climate and Soil, of the Produce of the Places by Sea and Land, and of the remarkable Cures perform'd by the Natives merely by the Ufe of Simples 5 and that in fuch variety, as I hope will make amends for what Defed:s may be found in my Stile and Way of Writing : for there's a Wanconnefs in Language as -• c:r^: a 4 well

viil The P K E F A C E.

well as in other things, to which my Countrymen of the files are as much ftrangers, as to other Excefles which are too frequent in many ip2Lns of Europe. We ftudy Things there more than Words, the thofe that underftand our Native Lan- guage muft own, that we have enough- of the latter to inform the Judgment, and work upon the Affedions in as pathetick a manner as. any other Languages, what- ever. But I go on to ray Subje<5h ■ n:i^<J

V -THE ifles here defcrib'd are but little known or confider'd, not only by Stran- gers, but even by thofe under the fame Government and Chmate. ■ ^ HT

"■THE modern Itch after the Know- ledg of foreign Places is fo prevalent, that the generality of Mankind beftow little Thought or Time upon the Place of their Nativity. It is become cuftomary in thofe of Quality to travel young into foreign Countries, whilft they are abfolute Strangers at home 3 and many of them, when they return, are only loaded with

fuper*

T"/^^ Preface. ix

fuperficial Knowledge as the bare Karnes of famous Libraries, ftacely Edifices, fine Statues, curious Paintings, late Fafhions, new Difhes, new Tunes, new Dances, painted Beauties, and the like.

- :i 'lodio

, THE Places here mention'd afford no fuch Entertainmenc 5 the Inhabitants in general prefer Conveniency to Ornament both in their Houfes and Apparel, and they rather fatisfy than opprefs Nature in their way of eating and drinking 5 and not a few among them have a natu- ral Beauty, which excels any that has been drawn by-tjie finefl: Jpelles,

noiff q i :^hli bni:

THE^ Land, and the Sea that encom- paffes it, produce many things ufeful and curious in their kind, feveral of which have not hitherto been mention d |)y the Learned. This may afford the J'heorift Subject of. Contemplation, fince every Plant of the Field, every Fiber of each Plant, and the leaft Particle of the fmalleft Infect, carries with it thelmprefs of its Maker j and if rightly confider'd,

may

X T7;e Preface.

may read us LetStures of Divinity and Morals.

THE Inhabitants of thefc Iflands do for the moftpart labour under the want of Knowledg of Letters, and other ufe- ful Arts and Sciences 5 notwithftanding which Defed:, they feem to be better vers'd in the Book of Nature, than many that have greater Opportunities of Im- provement. This will appear plain and evident to the judicious Reader, upon a View of the fuccefsful Pra6tice of the Iflanders in the Prefervation of their Health, above what the Generality of Mankind enjoys 3 and this is perform'd merely by Temperance, and the prudent ufe of Simples 3 which, as we are affur'd by repeated Experiments, fail not to re- move the moft ftubborn Diftempers, where the beft prepar'd Medicines have frequently no Succels. This I relate not only from the Authority of many of the Inhabitants, who are Perfons of great In* tegrity, but likewife from my own par- ticular Obfervation. And thus with Celfmy

they

X'kPREFACE. xi

they firft make Experiments, and after- wards proceed to reafon upon the EfFeds.

HUMAN Induftry has of late ad- vanc'd ufefiil and experimental Philofophy very much 5 Women and iUiterate Per- fons have in forae meafure contributed to it, by the Difcovery of fome ufeful Cures. The Field of Nature is large, and much of it wants ftill to be cultivated by an ingenious and difcreet Application 5 and the Curious, by their Obfervations, might daily make further Advances in the Hiiio- ' ry of Nature.

SELF-PRESERVATION is na- tural to every living Creature : and thus we fee the feveral Animals of the Sea and the Land fo careful of themfelves, as to obferve nicely what is agreeable, and what is hurtful to them 5 and accordingly they chufe the one, and reject the other.

THE Husbandman and the Fifliec could expert but little Succefs without pbfervation in their feveral Employ- ments 5

xii The Preface.

ments 5' and it is by Obfervation that the Phyfician commonly judges of the Con- dition of his Patient. A Man of Obfer- vation proves often a Phyfician to him- felf, for it was by this that our Anceftors prefervd their Health till a good old Age, and that Mankind laid up that Stock of natural Knovvledg, of which they are now poffefs'd.

THE "^[(c Solomon did not think it beneath him to write of the meaneft Plant, as well as of the talleft Cedar. Hippocra" tes was at the Pains and Charge to travel foreign Countries, with a defign to learn the Virtues of Plants, Roots, ^c. I have in my little Travels endcavour'd, among other things, in fome meafure to imitate fo great a Pattern ; and if I have been fo happy as to oblige the Republick of Learn- ing with any thing that is ufeful, I have my Defign. I hold it enough for me to furnifli my Obfervations, without ac- counting for the Reafon and Way that thofe Simples produce them : this I leave to the Learned in that Faculty j and if

they

The Preface. xni

they would oblige the World with fuch Theorems from thefe and the like Expe- riments, as might ferve for Rules upon Occafions of this nature, it would be of great advantage to the Publick.

AS for the Improvement of the Ifles in general, it depends upon the Govern- ment of Scotland, to give Encouragement for It to fuch publick-^fpirited Perfons or Societies as are willing to lay out their Endeavours that way : and how large a Field they have to work upon, will ap.

Pu'x^t''^^"^ ^""'^'y ^^^^^h, and of the Method of Improvement that I have hereunto fubjoin d.

THERE is fuch an Account given here of the Second Sight, as the Nature of the thing will bear. This has always been reckon dfufficient among the un- byafsdpart of Mankind 3 but for thofe that will not be fo fatisfy d, they ought to obhge us with a new Scheme, by which we may judg of Matters of fad.

THERE

xiv The Prefac E.

THERE are feveral Inftances of Heathenifm and Pagan Superftition a- mong the Inhabitants of the Iflands, rela- ted here : but I would not have the Reader to think thofe Pradlices are chargeable upon the generaHty of the prefent Inhabi- tants 3 fince only a few of the oldeft and moft ignorant of the Vulgar are guilty of 'em. Thefe Pradices are only to be found where the Reform'd Religion has not prevailed 5 for 'tis to the Progrefs of that alone, that the Banifhment of evil Spi- rits, as well as of evil Cuftoms, is owing, when all other Methods pro v'd ineffecflual. And for the Illanders in general, I may truly fay, that in Religion and Virtue they excel many thousands of others, who have greater Advantages of daily Improvement.

THE

( XV )

THE

CONTENTS

THE Ip of Lewis, its different NameSy Shirey and Diocep, Jir-Corre^ive, Soil^ CUjy Vejfelsy Vruitfulnefsy Corn ; Ground how m/t- nurUj Soot produces the "Jaundice ; Effects of Ground when firji tilled, page i, 2

Indujiry of the Inhabitants^ way of digging ; d firange Harrow^ how ufed ; Trefiarig and V/que- haugh- haul how made, and their EffeSs. ■>

An Account of the Eajs and Harbours, Fifb ; Gallan Whale de/lroys three Men ; young Whales how kilPdy they are nourishing Food. 4 ^

Whales called Sea-Pork, the larger more loofening ; various kind of Shell-fifh, how they corrupt the Air^ and the time ; Coral ; Trout s and Eels, their Bait, 6 The Cuftom of croffing Barvas-R/i/^r, by a Male^ I and not a Female, the firjt Day of May ; Springs and Fountains, their Qualities \ a fuperfiitioHs £jc- ! feriment about the Water, j

I ' Caves, Natural and Artificial Forts, their Form ; *th.v\x^Q\-Stone. §

A Heathen Temple, its Figure, 8cc, o

Fore ft, Deer and Cattle, how fed in time of a, Storm ', old Roots of Trees, ,q

A

xvi The Contents.

A Bufh of Wood ; State of Health, and Conjli- tut ion of the Inhabitants y their Difeafesy 'various Cures. II, 12

A Preternatural Birth, Ingenuity of the Na-^ fives. Love of Mufick, their Exercifes, Fatigue : Inferior JfleSy their Defcription ; a ft one Djke lately difcover^d in the Sea. i ^, 14, 15

Flannan- Ifles, their ProduU ; fuferflitious CuJ- tom of failing, fowling, &c. ufed by the Inhabi- tants. 16,17,18

Pigmies or Lusbird. The Ifle Rona, its Ex- tent^ Produ^y Inhabitants, their Devotions, Way of Living, Cuftoms. Mr. Morifon'^ Reeeption, Homage ; a Prefent given him and his Man ; he is feen after the manner of the Second Sight. The Inhabitants how they all perifFd. ' Colk a rare Fowl; a new Colony, Sec. 19- 25

Siant-7/7^ ; Eagles, their Policj/ ; Blue Stone ; IRoroi^Y -Point. The Ifles above make two Parishes ; Churches, their Names an^ Number. ,26, 27

Antient Natives fay their Pater-Nofter at frft rvim of a Church : Sacrifice o]fer'*d to a Sea-God, and how. 28

Inhabitants, their Religion ; an Experiment of Holy Water, Fefiivals ; Stomv^Lj Fillage, Pro- prietor. ■ 29, 30

Harries, Extent, Soil, Air how qualiffd; Har- bours, frefh Lakes, Springs, their various Qualities ;

Caves, Forts, Stones on end. 31- ^4

: Number of Deer, he. 'hiUnxkk,itsFur,^c. Two forts of Eagles. 3h 3^

A

The Contents. x\n

AFiper^ Rats hotv dejlrofd^ a ftone Ctrck in

the Sex^ 'v.uiom Shells^ Os Caepise how ufed^ Mo^

lacca BeAfis^ Jvtulets^ Ambergreefe. 11 rl^

H^AYing I'ljl haw re(ior*d ; EUndmfs in Sheep

how reftor'^d ; st Fottl with cloven Feei \ Carrot- Seed

intend of Hops, > ^9, 40

A finguUr Cure for a Co/d; a Worm how taken

out of one*s Cheek ; Allium^ how juccefsful agair/ft

the Stone \ Lunar Stone, .. 41

A Man loft his Sight at the Moon^s Change ; great

Prcdu6i of Barley \ Sea ware enriches the Ground ,

a Suhjlance Itke Slake grows in the ground. 42, 43

Several Irregularities in the Tides ; two Ravens ;

Stones ere Bed, - 44 —4^

Pabbay-//7f , Tokens of Wood gained by the Sea ; a fat^F adding calms the Sea^ and attracts . the Whales ; Sheep with big Horns, 48

Two Chappels ; a Tradition there proves falfe ; £ fecret Sign among the Inhabitants of Taranfay ; big Seals in Gasker-7/7^ ; a Pair of Seals ^ and Hammer dug out of a Grave in the Sands ; a Vein of Adamant in Qiiedam-/y^<f, no Mice can live in it, ' 49, 50

Hermetra-//7(? hath the Foundation oj a Maga- zine^ ufed when the Fijhery was there ; the rocky Channel between the Ifte of ViH and Harries navi- gable \ Feftivals-^ Cavalcade. 5i>52 The IJle North-Vift, its Figure^ Soil, great "Produce^ Corn, two Plor^ghs, Bajs^ four hundred Saii- loaded with Herring in Vw ; a, Magazine- Houfe for the great Fijherj, Shell-fjh, 5^ 54^ 5$

b Mickrel

xviii The Contents.

Mackrel run afbore with Sprwg-Tides, and hm they are preferv^d ; a firange way of thickning Cloth ; a vap number of frejb Lakes ^ they abound rvith Eels and Trout s. 5^» 57

Cod^ Ling, Mackrel, &C. Fijb caught in Lakes \ 4 marled Salmon defcrib'*d ; SheU-Ftfh ; antient Forts, Cairns of Stone. 58

Fal/e Centinels, fever al Stones on end ; a Stone on end, to which Malefa^ors were tfd at Divine Service ; the Water-Crofs. 59

Several forts of Fewel ; Cheefe falted with Jjbes of Bar ley-fir aw ; an earthen Pitcher full of Bones ; the Policy of Ravens, Sec Seals how taken with Nets ; the yearly Attack on Seals in Qo\x(m\\-Rock ; Seals, their Naturality, &c. 61,62, 6 j

Seals how eat, how pre fervid, how ufed againft Diarrhea and Dyfenteria ; Seals ufed againjt the Chin-cough, tts way of leaping, the Skin how ufedy Hams made of Seals ; a Difpute whether a Seal be FtjborFlejh, 6^,6^

Hcisker- Rocks, 66

The Ifle Borera ; a Mare brings forth a Foal in her fecond Tear ; fne Dulfe^ Monks Field, Grave- fiones ; Tradition of Monks Poflure in time of Prayer. 6Z

Lingay-7/?? its Produce, it has been efleem^d fa- cred ; Beef falted in the Cows Hide ; Cows fatned by Sea-ware. 69

Deer feed on Sea-ware ; Eagle how it ffbes \ Fowl of Sea and Land ; black Eagle deftroys Lamb, Deer^ and Fawn ; a Vow at the eating of a Swan ; the Colk defcrib^d ; the Gowlin prognofiicates fair Wea- ther. l^^lt^

Tht

The Concents. xix

The GowUn*s Notes fUfd on the Pi^ ^ the Rain-Geefe foretell Rain ; the Bifbof-Fowl cures the Sciatica ; the Bird Goylir foretells a, Storm, 72

The Bird Screaehanattin^ its JfeBion to its Mate, Obfervation of Eggs. Wild-Geefe. 7 j

Barren Fowl, Air, its Properties. SnorVy its time, Obfervations of Frofi and Rain. Obfer'vM tion of the North-Eaji Winds, Difeafes^ Cures,

74)7$ A Native called the Rain^ Almanack, A Houje

in which a Cock doth not crow from September till

March. Longevity of the Natives, their Charity,

An Inn a great Rarity. Cufiom of asking Grain,

Cows, 8fc. gratis. l^^ll^l^

The Anniverfary Cavalcade, A Cufiom tolera- ted the night before the Cavalcade. How they run for a Prize ; Bridles, Whips how made. Mutual Prefents, Proprietor, Religion, 78,79,80

BenbecuIa-///(?, a Harbour, Soil. A Vault having many fmall Bones in it^ Opinion concerning them-, Proprietor, A Lay-Capuchin, his Habity SfC. 82, 8 J

TheJ/leSouth-Yii):, Soil, Corn, fre/h Lakes, old Forts ; Ambergreefe found here. Froft kills Fijb, Inhabitants J Dtet, Habit, A Native ijo l^ears old ; Jlone Kjiirns , Superflition of the Natives,

§4,85, 86

Er|fca-7/7(?, Anchorage, Fifhings, the Ground cafts up Heath, A Caution to Travellers by Land, Vi' fers of late dtfcover''d. 87

Inhabitants, their Language, Drefs, Hofpitality,

their Alliances with Protejtants j Churches^ Bowing-

b 2 fione'y

W The Contents.

ftone\ a 'Buckle of Gold \ Fro^rietor^ Cuvdcide^ 5/.' Michael'^ Cake, Manufcrtps in the Irifli Char&Ber and Language, 88, 89

The I lie of Barray, its Lengthy Situation^ Pro- duce, Corn. ibid.

Plenty of Fijb, fmall Ship from Orkney for fifh\ a Harbour ; /heckled Salmon, and how taken^ ^'' ' 90

'^^FortSj Orchard, Tobacco growing there. Kifmal fhe Heretor'^s Seat, a Torver, Magazine. ibid.

The Officers, Cockman, Conflable. The Proper- ties of fever al Wells. Embrios of Cockles ', Chappel, St. Barr'i Jmnge, the Inhabitants paj religious Wor- fhip tott ; Tradition concerning St. Barr. 91, 92

The more Southern Ifles deJ'criPd, their Produce of Tip, Corny &c. A Stone rubbed to their Breajly and why. , 9^,94

Inhabitants their Hofpitality, a fmgular %vay of lodging Strangers. 95

An unknown Root. The Jfle Linmul. Fowl ; Climber Gingick, his Hazard, Reward, SfC. 96

Women and Men apply to Mackneil for a Matchy

and he recommends the Match. St. ChriftopherV

. Altar, the Natives perfortn their Devotion at it,

A Tenant'^s Misfortune fupplfd. 97

The Proprietor'' s Care of his Tenants ; Obferva- tion of Sheep , Anchorage, The Steward, his Per- quiftes. 98

Inferior Officers, their Perquifites. Religion ; St. BaiT, his anniverfary Cavalcade ; .a Prieji's Re- ception, and a Difpute with him concerning St. Barr. Proprietor^ his Antiquity, his Vaffalage^ Tribute^ 8cc. 99,100

Thi

The Contents. xxi

The dntient and modern Cuftoms of the hhM- t&nts of the Weflern IJles of Scotl and . i o i — j 2 3

Courts of judicatory, pffenfwe and defenfive Leagues, the formality of giving a Farm to a, Tenant, 124,125

, Qhurch-Difcifline. A Form of Prajer ufed by •the 1 /landers at Sea. 1 26— 130

The Ifle of Skie, its Etymology., Situation^ Shire^ Diocefs^ South-Eajt Moon caufeth high Tide. iji

Mold, Earths variom, their Effects ; Marca- ftes, Aggat, Chryfial, Marble, Ltmejfone, Cor- nua Ammonis. 1^2,155

Velumnities, Stone refemhling Goats Herns. h^pisKediicus, its ^alities. ij4

Corkir, Crotil, Talk, 135

Harbours, Mountains, ' 1^6 — 138

The Mountain QiiilJin tht Cdufe of Rain ', Soil "very good, from fever al Inflames, 1^9

u. Trigging yields a better Increafe than ploughing -, springs and Fountains^ their Qualities. Some are under a Fotp of coming to Lpchliant Well; an Of" fering is left on the Stones above the Well. 1 40

The Wood near the Well efieemed facred; a Trout Ij carefully preferv'^d. Thirty Rivers afford Salmon -, ) Pearl, 141

Prognofiick of Rain ; Bait and Seafonfor angling Trout '^ a frefh Lake., affords Pearl \ this IJle an- fiently covered with Wood, fome Coppices. 14,2

Htrring in fever al Bays, all kind of Fifh follow them ; all Fifh have a Leader, J fl^'^^g^ Obferva- tion of Herring ; Herring prefer v^d without Salt, All Ftflj abound on this Coajl • the Seafon for fiflj- ing; feveral forts of Bait. 14^, 144

b 5 The

xxii The Contents.

The Bays^ See. aford various SheU-fJh \ great plenty of Oyfiers. Nurfes Milk how to increafe. Jaundice occafiori'd by eating the Patella ; Ohferva- tiotis of the JPatella. 145, 146

Of the Balamos, Periwinkle, Cockles, &c. Ob- fernjation of Ftjh. 147

Sea Plants, their Qualities ; Sleep to procure ; Megrim how cured. Slake its Qualities, 148

Dulfe, its Properties ; of the Alga Marina.

149

White and red Coral, their Fffetis ; a Cave pe- trifies Water, 150

Several Caves, Cairns^ Stones fet on end ; the Giant Fin-Mac-Cowl. 151,152

Danifh Forts ferve as Beacons y Names of Forts^ Houfes, Druids Houfes^ Coal lately found, Cattle^ 8fC. '$?»M4

A Cow how impos'*d upon by the Skin of her dead Calf and how paciffd. Cows how deter'*d from any pUce, Cows difiingui[h the Tides without fight of the Sea. Cows how they pre/age their Mafier^s Death, A Native being killed, his Cows gave Blood infiead of Milk about that very time, 155,

156

A monflrous Calf', a Cow brought forth five Calves all at once, A Calf with double Feet ; Calves having the Ear flit. Land and Water- Fowl, the difference betwixt good and had Cormo- rants, their Broth reft ores Milk m Nurfes, they fore- tell the Winds. Obfervation of the Oil of Land and Sea-Fowl^ and of the St. Kilda Fovfl. Sea-Pye prefages fair Weather, 157,158

Amphi-

The Contents. xxiii

AmfihihiA ; Obfervation of Otters ; varioui Ser- fentSy hofp they ktU j Cures for the biting of Ser- pents. 159, 160 Two fort of Weafels, and their Efe^s, The PeninfuU Oronfay excels in Pafiurage, 161,162 The IJle Rafay ; 4 white Subjlance from fetriffd tVatery proves good Ltme. A Stone-Qunrry. A Law obferv'd in fifhing, 1 6 J FortSy Proprietor. Pyramids ere^ed for every deceased Lady. 164 HeBick Stone reddifh. Shoals of Herring, 165 The Jfle Fladda frequented by a monjirous l^^hale, A fuperflitioui Cufiom for procuring a fair Wind,

166

A Stone much regarded by the Natives. The

Monk Ogorgon. The Tour ufed by Birds and Men

ro/y»^ Table-Fort. 167, 168

Scurvy-grafs, its Size, Quality, 169

A fingular kind of Dutfe. The South of Skie

(Of Her in Grafsy Cattle, &c. than the North part,

170 Air, QmWiTi'Mountain calPd an Almanack, Se- veral Obfervations of Winds, 171, 172 A Prefage of fair Weather, Tides, Moon its Influence, 17^,174 The Difeafes known and not known in the IJle Skie. The Cures ufed by the Inhabitants, 17^,

176,177

The Alga Marina ufeful in planting. Several

Cures for Difeafes, 178,179

Land'Plants, their Qualities, 1 80, 1 8 1, 182

b 4 Cure

xxiv The Contents.

Cure for Cough, or HoArfemfs ; He^ick-fione, Water-gruel horv US' A. ' 3 J

A^mith's Cure for the Faint nefs of the Spirits,

184

Vulmraries ; Purges ; a Tumor to ripen ; Syroms to take away ; Bitndnefs how cured, Jfbes of Sea- rvare preferve Cheefi, 185, 186

SrvelPd feet , Glyflers hoxv made, A Difficulty iff eaftng Nature at He a ^ how removed, 1 87, 188

Sweat to procure ; the "uariom EffeHs of- Ftfbes

on fever al Co^/iituttor^s. j 8 9, 1 90

^ A Native hath a Faculty of ere^wg his Ears,

W ftrange Worm in j'ome People. i g2

• Teaft how preferv^d many Tears, ibid.

\FIemlock its Effects ; many Worms how deflrofd.

19?

. The Inhabitants Complexion, Education, great

Age^ Beds ; a larger Dofe of Phyftck requtr''d here than in the South. i 94, i 9^, 1 96

They are eafily cured ; an Empirtck without Let- ters or Education, his Succefs. 197, 198

The Natives fagxcio^i^^ mechanical, Lovers of Mufick. 199

Genim for Poetry ; Dtj advantage and Advan- tage in the want of Converfe. 200

Diet, Men eat more than Women ; Oon, a, Dijh made of Milk or Whey. 201, 202, 205

Graddan, a way of dr effing Corn -, two yearly Fairs ; Cattle how fwimni'd over the Ferries, 204

208

The IJI Anders Affection to thir Chief, 209

Their way of fghtwg, 2 1 o

Divifion

The Contents. xxv

".DivfJIonofSkie,IJIe, ProprieforSj Religion, 211

Boot-///^, Mold, Corn^ Rofa-TcJn^w, Churches-^

an antient Native^ he never cm eafe Nature at Sea ;

Language J Indujlry of the Natives^ Fi/hing, Vro-

frietors. 214,215,216

Arran-//??, its Etymology, Mountains, Bays,

Earths, Stones^ Rivers, Air. 217,218

Caves, a Giant'* s Houfe, Stones on end, Boms

found under them , two ft one Circles, 219,220

A Sanciuary, Harbour, Foreft, Cattle ^ Caftle of

Brodwick. 221,222

Proprietor, Deputy, Mack-Lewis, 225

Coroner ^ his Office, &c. Inhabitants, their Corn'-'

flexion, Habit^ Language, Churches, Religion ;

a Stone valued by the Inhabitants, Sec. 224, 225,

226

: "Iflefay- //?(?, a Fort, Produce, Chapfels, 227

Gigay-7/7^, its Church, the Bowing-ftone, Crofs,

Bleeding how ftenched ; Religion, no burying on

Friday^ 227 230

]\xvdh-ljle, its Etymology, Paps of Jurah, She- I riffdom, Proprietor. 2^8,252

I Wholefomnefs of the Ifte, Fountains, their Pro- sper ties; Longevity of the Natives, Cave, Har- [hours. 234, 2^5

I Dire^ion for Sailors ; Serpents', Cory-Vrekan GMf. ^l^y^n

A Veffel efcapes narrowly. Rats flee out of the

JA 238

Religion, they do not bury on Friday ; Com- \l(exion, Language; a Lead-Mine, 239

The

xxvi The Contents.

The Ijle of Ila, Finlagan IJle^ the Courts an^

tiently^ and Seat of Judicature, 240

Coronation-fione^ 8fc. Forts^ Caves, 241, 242

Rivers ; the Judg how buried, 245

Churches, Air, Proprietor ; a new-found IJle^

ealPd Green Ifle. 244, 245

The IJle Collonfay, Churchy Monafiery, Tombsy

Proprietor y Crojfes ; a Tour made round the Church ;

Moldy Cap ley Complex iony Diety Language, 246,

247, 248 Religion, Women only obferve the Nativity of the Bleffed Virgin ; ft one C hefts, 249

Mull-7/7i?, Air, Car me I' Root Aromatick, it pre- vents Drunkennefs ; Mountains, 250, 251 Baysy Forts, Tonbir-Mory Harbour y the Spa,' nifll ^hip blown up here, 252,25^ Indian Beans k ujed', a Stone receives no Heat. 2 ^4 Jona-(/?(f, Tradition concerning Columbus ; 1/4- rious Names of the Ip, its Length, it was a Se- mi/ary of Learning ; Revenues. The Bifljop of the IJles his Cathedral, he is filled Epifcopus Sodo- renfis. Vicar of Jona was Parfon of Soroby, and Dean of the I/les, St, Mary'/ Church defer tb'*d»

25^,256,257 Bifbops, Abbots, and others of diJlin5iion, hu' rfd within the Church', Cloyjier, Library, a Bu- rying-place for Murderers and Vnbaptiz^d Perjons,. QoXnmhus^sTomb, 258

St, MartinV Crofs ; Monks-Dun, its ufe. The Black Stones on which Oaths were Jworn ; they are ca/rd the Great Seal, 259

Taylors

The Contents. xxvii

Taylors Houfe, St, OuranV Chuuh^ fever al Per- fons of DiJiin6iion burfdinrit ', their Statues. 260

The Burial-place of the Kj>^gs of Scotland, Ireland, and Norway ; as alfo of the antient Fa- milies in the Ijles ; of an Englifh Bifhof : fever al Infcripions, RonadV Churchy wherein the Prio- rejfes are hury^d. 261,762

Infcriftions, Nunnery, two Pavements, Mack- lean'i trojs-, Columbus carry* d eighteen Clergy- men to Jona ; variegated Stones, how ufed. A Tra- dition of the Family of Porters, 26 j

Columbus, his Life in divers hands ; he exclu- ded Women from the JJle„ 264

Cattle excluded, only to he free from Women, Beda his Account of Columbus. 26 5, 266

The Ijle of Tire-iy ; Experiments to revive Ale ; Teafl how f refer vd, 267, 268

Cows- Milk produced by Sea-ware ; many Whales eat by the Natives, The IJle fubje^ to the Ague ; fome of the Inhabitants bald; a Cave. 269

Forts, Circles of Stone, Inhabitants^ their Re- ligion. 270

The IJle of Coll, it produces more Boys than Girls, and Tire-iy more Girls than Boys ; the for- mer feed on Oat-Bread, the latter on Barley, A Native aged 89 ; dangerous Rocks. 27 1

The IJle Rum, mountainous and heathy ; its Length, Rivers, Fowl, Caves, Colour of the Rocks, Deer, a fuperjlitious Obfervation, 27 j

Chappel, Proprietor, Language, Habit, 274

The IJle Muck, Fruitfulnefs, Cattle, Fowl, Lan- guage, Hawks, ibid.

The

xxviii The Contents.

The Ifle Cannay, fruitful in Corn md Grafs ^ f lent J of ft(h ; a Loadflom in the North end. The Jp called Tarfin at Sea. Columbus'i Church, Religion^ Habit, Proprietor^ Anchorage. 275

The Ifle of Egg, rockj and mount ainoi^a ; a nor- tural Fort, a Harbour, a large Cave, a Well repu- ted medicinal J the Effect it hath on a Stranger that lies at it in the night-time. The Natives make a Round about a Heap of Stone, A Heap of Stone con fecr died to the Virgin Mary. A Well confecra- ted by a Popijh Friejl^ much efteem'd by the Inhabit tints. The Ceremony at the Confecration. 276,277

St. Catherine'^ Anniverfary ; the Inhabitants rvell proportioned, Language, Habit, Religion. St. Donnan'j Church and Anniverfary. A Sepul- chral Vrn, a Pajfage under ground. Proteftants dmfd accefs to the Bur i Ms in this Jfle. 278, 279

St. Kilda or Hirta, Etymology of the Name, its Diflance, in a Dutch Map it is calPd Kilder ; its Length, Fountains, Cattle low of Stature, Sheep have big Horns. 2 80

^ - The Fort of the Vol fcii. 281

A barren Tribe of Solan Geefe ; 4 Pudding made of their Fat, and its Effect 282

Solan Goo fe- Egg pe floral, their Nefls how made-, £ red Coat, Sun-dial, Arrow, and yiQ\uccd.-Beans found in one of their Nefls. T'he Fowl called Fulmar, it's Size, it prognofticates the Wefl Wind, it feeds pnlive Whale, eats Sorrel, it [pouts out pure Oil at its Bill, Properties of this Oil. Number of the Inhabitants, Language, Habit., they are all not fub'ytci to many Dtfeafes • ihe Men very flrong.

Strangers

The Contents. xxix

Strangers infeci the Natives with a Cough. 28J,

284

Diet of the Natives^ it caufes a LeproJ). They

have a Geniud for Poejj ; thej efcape narrowly by

climbing ; the Ingenuity of one among them, 28 ^

- A fignificative Sign, under flood at a diflance by all the Women, The Women labour the Ground one Tear. - 286,287

- They fwear deciftve Oaths by the Crucifx, and it is of Brafs; The Imfoftor hts Deceit , horv he was taken out of thejfle, his Confeffion and Repentances^ «fC. 288 ^ St. 'KM2L-Man^s Notion of thiCity of Glafgow, tind of every Object he faw in it. Proprietor, Stew- ard, Produ6f, 289,290

Steward'*s Deputy, Omer and Cubit, no Silver or 4jold ufed here, they fight for Property, they live contentedly, nice in Property. 291

Stout Rowers, no Compafs, Pot-Penny, Tire- Fenny, the Fire-Penny loft by the Difcovery of Chryftal. 292

They excel in climbing. Two Ropes belonging to the Commonwealth. Great Pur chafe of Fowl; Eggs, two thoufand caught in a day'*s time ; Gins wherein Fowl are caught. One of the Natives ■efc apes narrowly. They per iffy in climbing. Lamen- tdPton-Songs. 29^, 294

Rock- Fowl how a Prefent ; Horfes, Fewel, Caval- cade, fihe Hawks. One of the Inhabitants travels to Glafgow, his flrange Idea of every Obje^ there.

295 A Child taken away by an Eagle, andpreferv^d. 299

XXX The Contents.

An Account of the Second Sight, or faculty of

forefeeing things to come^ by way of Vifion \ feve^

ral Jnfiances of it narrated. joo

A Scheme of Trade, particularly of Tifhing. j^6

The Language of the Inhabitants^ and thetr Re^

motenefs, no Obfiacle to this Defign. ibid.

They are capable of acquiring all Arts ; many go

abroad for want of Employment, ibid.

The Ground capable to maintain double the Num^

her of the Inhabitants ; their Cattle die in the Spring

by flarving. The Soil richer than in feveral other

parts. ibid.

The want of Skill in Agriculture a great lofs.

Many Families how eafily maintained. The IJles ate

proper for a folitary Life^ and living at a very eafy

rate, 338

The Ifles are healthful. A Tradition of Gold and

Silver Mines, A Lead-Mine in the Ifle of Ila.

The Situation of the Jfles advantageous for Trade, Two Attempts made by Kjng Charles I. and Kjng Charles II. to advance the Fishery of the Wejlern Ifles. 340

The Dutch Ftfhery caU'd a Golden Mine. The Herrings come to the Coafl of the Ifles in May and June ; they continue in fome parts till January : all other Ftjb follow the Herring. 549

Orkney -7/7w, their Situation, Origin, Longi- tude, Air. J 50

More Rain than Snow in Winter ; Sea- Air dif- folves Snow ; the Tides alter their Courfe ; Number of the Ifles. The main Land, Kirkwai Town, the Kjng and Bifhop*s Palace. 351

St.

The Contents. xxxi

St. MagnusV Church ; the Town erelied by the Danes. J52

Scripture-Stories fainted ; a lofty Infcriftion ; Harbours. The lejfer JJles defcrib'*d. The dange- Yous Whirlpools in time of a Calm. j 54

Orkney-///(?i fruitful^ fever al Mines ; no Trees here. A South-Eajl Moon caufeth high Tide. Fin- land Men an A their Boat. A medicinal Snail, Plenty of Shell-fjh. No venomous Creature in thefe Jfles. 356

Herring-fifhing negle^ed ; Whales^ Amphibia^ various ProduBs ', Fowl^ Cleck-Geefe; ^^y

PiQ:s the antient Inhabitants', they are difpof- fefs'^d by K>.Y^QnnQt]\ the Second, Magnus KJr^ of Norway, by means of Donald Bane, poffefjes the JJles. J 58

Orkney a Title of Honour, the Queen Proprie- tor. J 59

Orkney a Stewartry, Udal Right, different Mea- fureSy antient State of the Church, j6o 36 j

Antient Monuments and Curiofities. 564- — ^66

Superflition of the Inhabitants, their Longevity,

367, 368

( ' )

A

DESCRIPTION

O F T H E O F

SCOTLAND.

THE Ifland of Lewis is fo call'd from Leog^ which in the Irifh Language fignifies Water, lying on the Surface of the Ground ; which is very pro- per to this Ifland, becaufe of the great num- ber of frefh-water Lakes that abound in it. The Ifle of Lewis is by all Strangers and fea- faring Men accounted the outmofl: Tra£l: of Iflands lying to the Northweft of Scotland, It is divided by feveral narrow Channels, and diftinguifli'd by feveral Proprietors as well as by feveral Names : by the Iflanders it is com- monly call'd, The Long Ifland \ being from South to North loo Miles in length, and from Eafl to Weft from 3 to 1 4 in breadth. It lies in the Shire of Rofs^ and made part of the Diocefs of the Ifles.

A THE

2 ^Description of the

THE Ifle o( Lewis, properly and ftri8:Iy fo call'd, is ^6 Miles in length ; viz.. from the North-point oi Bowling-head to the South-point of Hnffinefs in Harries : and in fome places it is I o, and in others 1 2 Miles in breadth. The Air is temperately cold and moid, and for a Correftive the Natives ufe a Dofe of Trefiarig or Vfquebaugh. This Ifland is for the moft part healthy, efpecially in the middle from South to North. It is arable on the Weft fide, for about fixteen Miles on the Coaft ; it is like- wife plain and arable in feveral places on the Eaft. The Soil is generally fandy, excepting the Heaths, which in fome places are black, and in others a fine red Clay ; as appears by the many VefTels made of it oy their Women; fome for boiling Meat, and others for pre- ferving their Ale, for which they are much better than Barrels of Wood.

THIS Ifland was reputed very fruitful in Corn, until the late Years of Scarcity and bad Sea Tons. The Corn fown here is Barley, Oats and Rye ; and they have alfo Flax and Hemp. The beft Increafe is commonly from the Ground manur'd with Sea-ware: They fatten it alfo with Soot; but it is obferv'd that the Bread made of Corn growing in the Ground fo fattened, occafions the Jaundice to thofe that eat it. They obferve likewife that Corn pro- duced in Ground which was never tilled be- fore.

Weftern Iflands of Scotland. 3

fore, occafioAS feveral Diforders in j:hofe who eat the Bread, or drink the Ale made of that Corn ; fuch as the Head-ach and Vomiting.

THE Natives are very induftrious, and un- dergo a great Fatigue by digging the Ground with Spades, and in moft places they turn the Ground fo digged upfide down, and cover it with Sea-ware ; and in this manner there are about 500 People employ'd dai!y for fome months. This way of labouring is by them caWdTimiy ; and certainly produces a greater Increafe than digging or plowing otherwife. They have little Harrows with wooden Teeth in the firftand fecond Rows, which break the Ground ; and in the third Row they have rough Heath, which fmooths it. This light Harrow is drawn by a Man having a ftrong Rope of Horfe-hair acrofs his Breail.

THEIR plenty of Corn w^as fuch, as dif- pos'd the Natives to brew feveral forts of Li- quors, as common Vfijuehaugh, another call'd Trefiarig^ id efi, JquA-vtts^ jrhree times diftill'd, which is ftrong and hot ; a third fort is four times diftilPd, and this by the Natives is call'd Vfquehaugh'bauly id eflyVfquebaugh, which at fir ft tafte afFeds all the Members of the Body : two fpoonfulsof this laft Liquor is^ fufficiencDofe; and if any Man exceed this, it would prefently flop his Breath, and endanger his Life. The Treftar/g and Vfauehaugh-baul^ are both made of Oats. A 2 THERE

4 J" DeS C'RIVT I OT^ of the

THERE are feveral convenient Bays and Harbours in this Ifland. Loch-Grace and Loch- tuA lying Norweft, are not to be reckon'd fucli ; tho VeiTels are forc'd in there fometimes by ftorm. Loch-Stomvay Hes on the Eafl: fide in the middle of the Ifland, and is 1 8 Miles direOily South from the Northermoft Point of the fame. It is a Harbour well known by Seamen. There are feveral places for anchor- ing about half a League on the South of this Coafl. About 7 miles Southward there is a good Harbour, call'd the Btrkm IJles : within the Bay calPd Loch-Colmkilly ^ miles further South, lies Loch-Ertfort^ which hath an An- choring-place on the South and North : about 5 miles South lies Loch-fea-forty having two vifible Rocks in the Entry ; the beft Harbour is on the South fide.

ABOUT 24 miles South- weft Uqs Loch- Car hay, a very capacious, tho unknown Har- bour, bein^ never frequented by any VeiTels : tho the Natives affure me that it is in all re- fpe6ls a convenient Harbour for Ships of the firft rate. The beft Entrance looks North and North-v/eft, but there is another from the Weft. On the South fide of the Ifland Ber^ fjera, there are fmall Iflands without the En- trance, which contribute much to the Security of the Harbour, by breaking the Winds and Seas that come from the great Ocean. Four

miles

Weftern Jfands of Scotland. 5

miles to the South on this Coafl:, is Loch-Rogue^ which runs in among the Mountains. All the Coafts and Bays above-mention'd, do ia fair Weather abound with Cod, Ling, Herring, and all other forts of Filhes taken in the Weftern Iflands.

COD and Ling are of a very large fize, and very plentiful near Loch-Carlvay ; but the Whales very much interrupt the Fifhing in this place. There is one fort of Whale re- markable for its Greatnefs, which the Fifher- men diftinguifh from all others by the Name of the Galla?i4i^hale ; becaufe they never fee it but at the Promontory of that Name. I was told by the Natives, that about 1 5 Years ago, this great Whale overturned a Fifliers-boat, and devour'd three of the Crew ; the fourth Man was fav'd by another Boat which happened to be near, and faw this Accident. There are many Whales of different fizes, that frequent the Herring-Bays on the Eaft fide : the Natives imploy many Boats together in purfuit of the Whales, chafing them up into the Bays, till they wound one of them mortally, and then it runs afhore; and they fay that all the reft commonly follow the track of its Blood, and run themfelves alfo on fhore in like manner, by which means many of them are kill'd. About five years ago there were fifty young Whales kill'd in this manner, and moft of them eaten by the common People, who by experience find A 3 them

6 ^Description o/f/ic

them to be very nourifhing Food. This i have be«n afTar'd of by feveral Perfons, but par- ticularly by fome poor meagre People, who be- came plump and lufty by this Food in the fpace of a Week : they call it Sea-Pork, for fo it fig- nifies in their Language. The bigger Whales are more purgative than thefe leffer ones, but the latter are better for Nourifhment.

THE Bays afford plenty of Shell-fifh, as Clams, Oyfters, Cockles, Muffels, Lympits, Wilks, Spout-fiih ; of which lall: there is fuch a prodigious quantity cafl: up out of the Sand of Loch'tua, that their noifom Smell infefts the Air, and makes it very unhealthful to the In- habitants, who are not able to confume them, by eating or fatning their Ground with them : and this they fay happens moll commonly once in feven Years.

THE Bays and Coafts of this iHand afford great quantity of fmall Coral, not exceeding fix Inches in length, and about the bignefs of a Goofe s Quill. This abounds moft mLoch-fea- fort, and there is Coraline likewife on this Coaft.

THERE are a great many Frefh-water Lakes in this Ifland, which abound with Trouts and Eels. The common Bait us'd for catching tlicm is Farthvvorms, but a handful of parboii'd Muffels thrown into the Water, attrads the

Trouts

Weftem JJlands of Scotland. 7

Trouts and Eels to the place : the fitteft time for catching them, is, when the Wind blows from the South- weft. There are fe veral R iver& on each fide this Ifland which afford Salmons, as alfo black MulTels, in which many tirties Pearl is found.

THE Natives in the Village B^ri/^ retain an antient Cuftom of fending a Man very early to crofs B/trvas River, every firft Day of Mny, to prevent any Females croiling it firfi: ; for that they fay would hinder the Salmon from coming into the River all the year round : they pretend to have learn'd this from a foreign Sailor, who w^as fhipwreck'd upon that Coaft a long time ago. This Obfervation they main- tain to be true from Experience.

THERE are feveral Springs and Fountains of curious Effefts ; fuch as that at Loch-Carlvaj^ that never whitens Linen, which hath often been try'd by the Inhabitants. The Well at St. CowfierPs Church never boils any kind of Meat, tho it be kept on fire a whole day. St. J/idrerv'^ Well in the Village Shadar is by the vulgar Natives made a Teif to know if a fick Perfon will die of the Diftemper he labours under. They fend one with a wooden Dilli to bring fome of the Water to the Patient, and if the 13ifh which is then laid foftly upon the Sur- face of the Water turn round Sun-ways, they conclude that the Patient will recover of that Diftemper ; but if otherwife, that he will die. A 4 THERE

8 ^//Description of the

THERE are many Caves on the Coaft of this Ifland, in which great numbers of Otters and Seals do Ue ; there be alfo many Land and Sea-Fowls that build and hatch in them. The Cave in Loch-Grace hath feveral pieces of a hard Subftance in the bottom, which diftil from the top of it. There are feveral natural and artificial Forts in the Coaft of this Ifland, which are callM Du^, from the Irifh word Dam^ which fignifies a Fort. The natural Forts here . are Dun-oivhy Dun-coradil^ Dun-eijien.

THE Caftle at Stomvay-W iWdigt was de- ftroyM by the EngUjh Garifon, kept there by Olii'er Cromwell. Some few miles to the North of Br ago there is a Fort compos'd of large Stones ; it is of a round form, made taperwife towards the top, and is three ftories high : the Wall is double, and hath feveral Doors and Stairs, fo that one may go round within the "Wall. There are feme Cairnes or Heaps of Stones gathered together on Heaths, and fome of them at a great diftance from any Ground that affords Stones ; fuch as Ca/r/marp near Mourmgh-HiWy &c, Thefe artificial Forts are likewife built upon Heaths at a confiderable diftance alfo from ftony Ground. The Thrufhtl Stone in the Parifh of Barvas is above 20 foot high, and almoft as much in breadth. There are three ereded Stones upon the North fide of Loch'Carlvajy about 1 2 foot high each. Se- veral

Wejlern Jjtands of Scotland. p

veral other Stones are to be feen here in remote places, and fome of them {landing on one end. Some of the ignorant Vulgar fay, they were Men by Inchantment turn'd into Stones ; and others fay, they are Monuments of Perfons of Note kiird in Battel.

THE moft remarkable Stones for Number, Bignefs, and Order, that fell under my Obfer- vation, were at the Village o^CUffemiJs ; where there are ^9 Stones fet up 6 or 7 foot high, and 2 foot in breadth each : they are plac'd in form of an Avenue, the breadth of which is 8 foot, and the diftance between each Stone fix ; and there is a Stone fet up in the Entrance of this Avenue : at the South end there is join'd to this Range of Stone a Circle of 1 2 Stones of equal diftance and height with the other ^9. There is one fet up in the Center of this Circle, which is 1 5 foot high, and fhap'd like the Rud- der of a Ship : without this Circle there are 4 Stones ftanding to the Weft, at the fame dif tance with the Stones in the Circle ; and there are 4 Stones fet up in the fame manner at the South and Eaft fides. I enquired of the Inha- bitants what Tradition they had from their Anceftors concerning thefe Stones ; and they told me, it was a Place appointed for Worfhip in the time of Heathenifm, and that the Chief Drutd or Prieft ftood near the big Stone in the center, from whence he addrefs'd himfelf to the People that furrounded him.

UPON

to ^Description o/f/;

';e

UPON the fame Coaft alfo there is a Circle of high Stones {landing on one end, about a quarter of a mile's diftance from thofe above- mention'd.

THE Shore in Eggimfs abounds with many little fmooth Stones prettily variegated with all forts of Colours ; they are of a round Form, which is probably occafionM by the tofling of the Sea, which in thofe parts is very violent.

THE Cattle produced here are Cows, Hor- fes, Sheep, Goats, Hogs. Thefe Cows are little, but very fruitful, and their Beef very fweet and tender. The Horfes are confiderably lefs here, than in the oppofite Continent, yet they plow and harrow as well as bigger Horfes, tho in the Spring-time they have nothing to feed upon but Sea-ware. There are abundance of Deer in the Chafe of Ofervauly which is 1 5 miles in compafs, confiding in Mountains, and Valleys between them : this affords good Paftu rage for the Deer, black Cattle, and Sheep. This Fo- refiy for fo they call it, is furrounded with the Sea, except about one mile upon the Weft fide : the Deer are forc'd to feed on Sea- ware, when the Snow and Froft continue long, having no Wood to fhelter in, and fo are expos'd to the Rigour of the Seafon.

I SAW big Roots of Trees at the head of Loch'Erifporty and there is about a hundred

young

Weflern Jflands of Scotland. 1 1

young Birch and Hazle Trees on the South- weft fide of Loch'Stornvay, but there is no more Wood in the Ifland. There's great va- riety of Land and Sea-Fowls to be feen in this and the ielTer adjacent Iflands.

THE AmfhibtA here are Seals and Otters ; the former are eaten by the Vulgar, who find them to be as nouridiing as Beef and Mutton.

THE Inhabitants of this Ifland are well proportion'd, free from any bodily Imperfec- tions, and of a good Stature : the Colour of their Hair is commonly a light-brown, or red, but few of them are black. They are a health- ful and ftrong-body'd People, feveral arrive to a great Age : Mr. Daniel Morijoyj^ late Miniifer of Barvasy one of my Acquaintance, died late- ly in his 86th Year.

THEY are generally of a fanguine Confti- tution : this Place hath not been troubled with Epidemical Difeafes, except the Small-PoXj which comes but feldom, and then it fw eeps away many young People. The Chixa-cough affiids Children too: the Fever, Diarrhea, Dy- fenteria, and the falling down of the Uvula, Fevers, Jaundice and Stitches, and the ordina- ry Coughs proceeding from Cold, are the Difeafes moft prevalent here. The common Cure us'd for removing Fevers and Pleurifies, is to let Blood plentifully. For curing the

Diarrhea

12 ^Description of the

Diarrhea and Dyfenteria, they take fmall quan- tities of the Kernel of the black Molocca Beans, caird by them Crofpunk ; and this being ground into powder, and drunk in boil'd Milk, is by daily experience found to be very effeftual. They likewife ufe a little Dofe of Trefiarig Water with good fuccefs. When the Cough afFe£ls them, they drink Brochm plentifully, which is Oat-meal and Water boil'd together ; to which they fometimes add Butter. This Drink us'd at going to bed, difpofeth one to fleep and fweat, and is very diuretick, i( it hath no Salt in it. They ufe alfo the Roots of Nettles, and the Roots of Reeds boil'd in Wa- ter, and add Yeaft to it, which provokes it to ftirment ; and this they find alfo beneficial for the Cough. When the Uvula falls down, they ordinarily cut i:, in this manner : They take a long Qj-iill, and putcing a Horfe-hair double into it, make a noofe at the end of the Qiiill, and putting it about the lower end of the Uvula, they cut off from the Uvula all that's below the Hair with a pair of ScifTors ; and then the Patient fwallows a little Bread and Cheefe, which cures him. This Operation is not attended with the leaft Inconvenience, and cures the Diftemper fo that it never returns. They cure green Wounds vi^ith Ointment made of Golden-rod, All-heal, and freHi Butter. The Jaundice they cure two ways : the firft is by laying the Patient on his face, and pre- tending to look upon his Back-bones, they

pre-

Wejlern I/lands of Scotland. 1 5

prefently pour a Pail-full of cold Water on his bare Back ; and this proves fuccefsful. The fecond Cure they perform by taking the Tongs, and making them red-hot in the Fire; then pulling off the Clothes from the Patient's Back, he who holds the Tongs gently touches the Pa- tient on the Vertebra upwards of the Back, which makes him furioufly run out of doors, Hill fuppofing the hot Iron is on his Back, till the Pain be abated, which happens very fpee- dily, and the Patient recovers foon after. D^?- ndd-Chuariy in a Village near Bragrr, in the Parifh of Barvas^ had by Accident cut his Toe at the Change of the Moon, and it bleeds a frefh Drop at every Change of the Moon ever fince.

JNNJ, D2iughter to George, in the Village of Melbofi, m the Parifh of £7, having been with Child, and the ordinary; time of her De- livery being expir'd, the Child made its Paf- fage by the Fundament for fome Years, com- ing away Bone after Bone. She liv'd feveral Years after this, but never had any more Chil- dren. Some of the Natives, both of the Ifland of Lewii and Harries, who conversed with her at the time when this extraordinary thing happen'd, gave me this Account.

THE Natives are generally ingenious and quick of Apprehenfion ; they have a mechani- cal Genius, and feveral of both Sexes haVe a

Gift

14 ^Description of the

Gift of Poefy, and are able to form a Satire or Panegyrick ex tempore^ without the Affiftance of any ftronger Liquor than Water to raife their Fancy. They are great Lovers o^ Mufick ; and when I was there they gave an Account of eighteen Men who could play on the Violin pretty well, without being taught : They are itill very hofpitable, but the late Years of Scarcity brought them very low, and many of the poor People have died by Famine. The Inhabitants are very dextrous m the Exercifes of Swimming, Archery, Vaulting, or Leap- ing, and are very flout and able Seamen ; they will tug at the Oar all day long upon Bread and Water, and a Snufh of Tehacco,

of the inferiow' adjacent IJlands,

w

ITHOUT the Mouth of Loch-Carl- vaj lies the fmall Ifland Garve ; it is a high Rock, about half a Mile in compafs, and fit only for Pafturage. Not far from this lies the Ifland Bermfay, which is a quarter of a Mile in compafs, naturally a ftrong Fort, and formerly us'd as fuch, being almoft inaccefTible.

THE Ifland FUdda, which is of fmall com- pafs, lies between Eerinfay and the main Land.

Within

Wejlern IJtands of Scotland. 1 5

Within thefe lies the Ifland call'd Bemera Mi- mr, two Miles in length, and fruitful in Corn and Grafs. Within this Ifland, in the middle of Loch^Carlvay, lies the Ifland Bemera Major^ being four Miles in length, and as much in breadth : It is fruitful alfo in Corn and Grafs, and hath four Villages. JlexAnder Mack-Lenm^ who lives in Bemera, Major ^ told me, that fome Years ago a very extraordinary Ebb hap-' pen'd there, exceeding any that had been feen before or fince ; it happen'd about the Vernal Equinox, the Sea retired fo far as to difcovera Stone-wall, the length of it being about 40 yards, and in fome parts about 5, 6, or 7 foot high, they fuppofe much more of it to be un- der Water : it lies oppofite to the Wefl:-fide of Lervis^ to which it adjoins. He fays that it. is regularly built, and without all doubt the ef- feS: of human Induftry. The Natives had no Tradition about this piece of Work, fo that I can form no other Conjefture about it, but that it has probably been erefted for a Defence againfl: the Sea, or for the ufe of Fifliermen, but came in time to be overflowed. Near to both Bemeras lie the fmall Iflands of Kjaltfay^ Cavajiy Carvajy and Grenim,

NEAR to the North- wefl: Promontory of Car hay Bay, calPd Galen-hcad^ are the little Iflands of Pabbay^ Shirem^ Faxaj, Wuya^ the Great and Leffer. To the North-wefl: of Gallan-heady and within fix Leagues of it, lie

the

^6 ^Description of the

the FUnnan-IJlmds^ which the Seamen call North-hunters ; they are but fmall Iflands, and fix in number, and maintain about feventy Sheep yearly. The Inhabitants of the adja- cent Lands of the Lervisy having a right to thefe Iflands, vifit them once every Summer, and there make a great purchafe of Fowls, Eggs, Down, Feathers, and Quills. When they go to Sea, they have their Boat well mann'd, and make towards the Iflands with an Eaflr-Wind ; but if before or at the Landing the Wind turn Wefterly, they hoilt up Sail, and ft;eer direfl:- ly home again. If any of their Crew is a Novice, and not vers'd in the Cuftoms of the place, he mufl: be infl:ru6led perfe6lly in all the Puntlilio's obferv'd here before Landing ; and to prevent Inconveniences that they think may enfue upon the Tranfgreilion of the leafl: Nicety obferv'd here, every Novice is always join'd with another, that can infl:ru6l him all the time of their Fowling : fo all the Boat's Crew are match'd in this manner. After their Landing, they faften the Boat to the fides of a Rock, and then fix a wooden Ladder, by lay- ing a Stone at the foot of it, to prevent its falling into the Sea ; and when they are got up into the Ifland, all of them uncover their Heads, and make a turn Sun-ways round, thanking God for their Safety. The firfl: In- junction given after Landing, is not to eafe Na- ture in that place where the Boat lies, for that they reckon a Crime of the higheft nature,

and

Weflern IJJands of Scotland. 17

and of dangerous confequence to all their Crew ; for they have a great regard to that very piece of the Rock upon which they firft fet their Feet, after efcaping the danger of the Ocean.

THE biggeft of thefe Iflands is call'd I/ia^d^ More; it has the Ruins of a Chappel dedicated to St. FUnnart^ from whom the Ifland derives its Name. When they are come within about 20 Paces of the Altar, they all ftrip themfelves of their upper Garments at once ; and their up- per Clothes being laid upon a Scone, which ftands there on purpofe for that ufe, all die Crew pray three times before they begin Fowl- ing : the firft day they fay the firil Prayer, ad- vancing towards the Chappel upon theu' Knees; the fecond Prayer is laid as they go round the Chappel ; the third is faid hard by or at the Chappel : and this is their Morning-Service. Their Fefpers are performed with the like num- ber of Prayers. Another Rule is, That it is abfolutely unlawful to kill a Fowl with a Stone, for that they reckon a great Barbarity, and di- redly contrary to antient Cuftom.

IT is alfo unlawful to kill a Fowl before ithey afcend by the Ladder. It is ablblutely unlawful to call the Ifland of St. Kj-ida (which lies thirty Leagues Southward) by its proper Irijh Name i//r/, but only the high Country. They muft not fo much as once name the B Iflands

I 8 ^ D E S C R I P T I O N 0/ tk

Iflands in which they are fowling, by the ordinary Name fUnna.n^ but only the Coun- try. There are feveral other things that muft not be caird by their common Names : e. g, Vtskj which in the Language of the Natives fignifies fVatery they call Burn : a Rock, which in their Language is Creg, muft here be call'd Cruejj i. e. bard : Shore in their Language ex- prefs'd by CUddach, muft here be 'call'd Fah^ i. e. a Cave : Sour in their Language is ex- prefsM Gort, but muft here be calFd Gaire^ i. e. Sharp : Slippery, which is exprefs'd Bog, muft be call'd Soft : and feveral other things to this purpofe. They account it alfo unlaw- ful to kill a Fowl after Evening-Prayers. There is an antient Cuftom, by which the Crew is oblig'd not to carry home any Sheep-fuet, let them kill ever fo many Sheep in rhefe Iflands. One of their principal Cuftoms is not to fteai or eat any thing unknown to their Partner, eli3 the Tranfgreffor (they fay) will certain- ly 7omit it up ; which they reckon as a juft Judgment. V/hen they have loaded their Boat fufticiencly with Sheep, Fowls, Eggs, Down, Fifli, &c. they make the beft of their way homeward. It's obferved of the Sheep of thefe i Hands, that they are exceeding far, aad have ion^ Horns.

I HAD this fuperftitious Account not only from feveral of the Natives of the Lew^s, but likewife from two who had been in the Flan-

nan

Weftern Ijlands of Scotland. 19

nm Iflands the preceding Year. I ask'd one of them if he pray'd at home as often, and as fervently as he did when in the tlmnm Iflands, and he plainly confefs'd to me that he did not : adding furcher, that tliefe remote Iflands were places of inherent San^lity ; and that there was none ever yet landed in them but found himfelf more difpos'd to Devotion there, than any where elfe. The Ifland of Pigmies^ or, as the Natives call it, The Ifland of Little Men^ is but of fmall extent. There has been many fmall Bones dug out of the Ground here, re- fembling thofe of Human Kind more than any other. This gave ground to a Tradition which the Natives have of a very Low-flatur'd People living once here, caird LusbirdAn^ i. e. Pigmies,

THE Ifland Konx is reckoned about 20 Leagues from the North-eafl: Point of Ne[s in hems^ and counted but a Mile in length, and about half a Mile in breadth : it hath a Hill \.]x the Wefl: part, and is only vilTble from the Lewis in a fair Summers-day. I had an Ac- count of this lictle Ifland, and the Cufl:om of it from feveral Natives of Lewis^ who had been upon the place ; but more particularly from Mr. Daniel Morifon^ Mmifl:er of Ilzrvas^ after his Return from Ro/^d Ifland, which then belong'd to him, as part of his Glei?e» Upon my landing (fays he) the Natives received me very aifedionately, and addrefs'd me with . . ' B g their

20 ^ D ESC KIVT iON of the

their ufual Salutation to a Stranger : God fave jouy Ptlgrtm^ you are heartily welcome here ; for we have had repeated Apparitions of your Ferjon among ws (after the manner of the fecond Sight) and we heartily congratulate your Arri- id in this our remote Country, One of the Natives would needs exprefs his high Efteem for my Perfon, by making a turn round about me Sun-ways, and at the fame time biefling me, and wifhing me all Kappinefs; butlbd him let alone that piece of Homage, telling him I was fenfible of his good Meaning to- wards me : but this poor Man was not a little difappointed, as were alfo his Neigh- bours ; for they doubted not but this antient Ceremony would have been very acceptable to me : and one of them told me, That this was a thing due to my Charafter from them, as to their Chief and Patron, and they could not, nor would not fail to perform it. They conducted me to the little Village where they dwell, and in the way thither there were three In- clofures ; and as I entred each of thefe, the Inhabitants feverally faluted me, taking me by the hand, and faying, Traveller^ you are wthome here. They went along with me to the Houfe that they had alTignM for my Lodg- ing; where there was a bundle of Straw laid on the Floor, for a Seat for me to fit upon. After a little time was fpent in general Dif- courfe, the Inhabitants retir'd to their re- fpedive Dwelling-Houfes ; and in this Interval,

they

Wejieni IJJands of Scotland. 2 1

they kill'd each Man a Sheep, being in all five, anfwerable to the number of their Fami- lies. The Skins of the Sheep were intire, and flay'd off fo from the Neck to the Tail, that they were in form like a Sack. Thefe Skins being flay'd off after this manner, were by the Inhabitants inffantly fili'd with Barley-meal ; and this they gave me by way of a Frefent : one of their number afted as Speaker for the rert, faying. Traveller^ we are very fenfible of the Favour you have done us in coming jo far with a Defign to inftruct us in our way to Happinefs^ and at the jame time to venture your [df on the great Ocean \ fray be pleas'* d to accept of this fmall Fre- fent^ which we humbly ojfer as an Exprejjion of our fincere Love to you. This I accepted, tho in. a very coarfe Drefs ; but it was given with fuch an Air of Hofpitality and Good-will, as de- fer v'd Thanks. They prefented my Man alfo with fome pecks of Meal, as being likewife a Traveller : the Boats-Crew having been in Rona before, were not reckoned Strangers, and therefore there was no Prefent given them, but their daily Maintenance.

THERE is a Chappel here dedicated to St.Ronan^ fenc'd with a Stone-Wall round it; and they take care to keep it neat and clean, and fweep it every day. There is an Altar in it, on which there lies a big Plank of Wood about ten Foot in length \ every Foot has a hole in it, and in every hole a Stone, to which B I the

22 c^Description of the

the Natives afcribe feveral Virtues : one of them is fingular, as they fay, for promoting fpeedy Delivery to a Woman in Travail.

THEY repeat the Lord's Prayer, Creed, and Ten Commandments in the Chappel every Sunday Morning. They have Cows, Sheep, Barley and Oats, and live a harmlefs Life, be- ing perfeftly ignorant of moll: of thofe Vices that abound in the World. They know no- thing of Mony or Gold, having no occafion for either; they neither fell nor buy, but only barter for fuch little things as they want : they covet no Wealth, being fully content and fatisfy'd with Food and Raiment ; tho at the fame time they are very precife in the matter of Property among themfelves : for none of them will -by any means allow his Neighbour to fil"h within his Property ; and every one muft exactly obferve not to make any in- croachment on his Neighbour. They have an agreeable and hofpitable Temper for all Stran- gers : they concern not themfelves about the reft of Mankind, except the Inhabitants in the North part of Len^/s. 1 hey take their Sir- name from the Colour of the Sky, Rain-bow, and Clouds. There are only five Families in this fmall iiland, and every Tenant hath his Dwelling- houfe, a Barn, a Houie where their beft EiT:;ds are preferv'd, a Houfe for their Cattle, and a Porch on each fide, of the Door to keep off the Rain or Snow. Their Houfes

are

Weft em Tflands of Scotland. 2^

are built with Stone, and thatched with Straw, which is kept down with Ropes of the fame, poisM with Stones. They wear the fame Ha- bit with thofe in Lewis, and fpeak only Irifh. When any of them comes to the Leins, which is feldom, they are aftonifh'd to fee fo many People. They much admire Grey-hounds, and love to have them in their company. They are mightily pleas'd at the fight of Horfes ; and one of them obferving a Horfe to neigh, ask'd if that Horfe laughM at him. A Boy from Ro/2a perceiving a Colt run towards him, was fo much frighted at it, that he jumpM into a Bufh of Nettles, where his whole Skin be- came full of Blifters.

ANOTHER of the Natives of Rom having had the opportunity of travelling as far as Coul, in the Shire of Rofs, which is the Seat of Sir Alexander Mac-kenzie^ every thing he faw there was furprizing to him ; and when he heard the noife of thofe who walk'd in the Rooms above him, he preiently fell to the ground, thinking thereby to lave his Life, for he fuppos'd that the Houfe was coming down over his head. When Mr. Mortj'on the Minilkr was in Rom, two of the Natives courted a Maid with intention to marry her; and being marry'd to one of them afterwards, the other was not a litcle diiappoint;id, be- caufe there was no odier Match for him^ m this Ifland. The Wmd blowing fair, Mr. Mo- B 4 rijon

14 ^Description of the

rifon failed diretlly for Lems ; but after three i hours failing was forced back to Rona by a contrary Wind : and at his landing, the poor Man that had loft his Sweetheart was over- joyed, and exprefs'd himfelf in thefe words; I l3lels God and Ronm that you are return'd again, for I hope you will now make me hap- py, and give me a right to enjoy the Woman every other Year by turns, that fo we both may have Iffue by her. Mr. Morijon could not refrain from fmiling at this unexpected Requeft, chid the poor Man for his unreafonable De- mand, and defir'd him to have patience for a Year longer, and he would fend him a Wife from Lewis ; but this did not eafe the poor Man, who was tormented with the thoughts of dying without IfTue.

ANOTHER who wanted a Wife, and having got a Shilling from a Seaman that hap- pened to land there, went and gave this Shil- ling to Mr. Morifon, to purchafe him a Wife in the Lewts^ and fend her to him, for he was told that this Piece of Mony was a thing of ex- traordinary Value ; and his Defire was grati- fy'd the enfuing Year.

ABOUT 14 Years ago a Swarm of Rats, but none knows how, came into Rona^ and in a fhort time eat up all the Corn in the Ifland. In a few months after, fome Seamen landed there, who robbed the poor People

Wejlern IJlands of Scotland. 2 5

of their Bull. Thefe Misfortunes, and the want of Supply from Lewis for the fpace of a Year, occafion'd the Death of all that antient Race of People. The Steward of St. KjUa being by a Storm driven in there, told me that he found a Woman with her Child on her Breaft, both lying dead at the fide of a Rock. Some years after, the .Minifter (to whom the Ifland belongeth) fent a new Co- lony to this Ifland, with fuitable Supplies. The following Year a Boat was fent to them with fome more SuppHes, and Orders to re- ceive the Rents ; but the Boat being loft, as it is fuppos'd, I can give no further account of this late Plantation.

THE Inhabitants of this little Ifland fay, that the Cuckow is never feen or heard here, but after the Death of the Earl of Seaforth, or the Minifter.

THE Rock SouUsker lieth four Leagues to the Eaft of Ron a ; it is a quarter of a mile in Circumference, and abounds with great numbers of Sea Fowl, fuch as Solan Geefe, Guillamote, Coulter-Neb, Puffin, and feve- ral other forts. The Fowl called the Colk is found here : it is lefs than a Goole, all covered with Down, and when it hatches it cafts its Feathers, which are of divers Colours ; it has a Tufft on its head refembling that of a Peacock, and a Train longer than that of a , Houfe-

r6 ^ Des CRi PTi o N 0/ ff?e

Houfe-Cock, but the Hen has not fo much Ornament and Beauty.

THE Ifland S'uxnty or, as the Natives call it, Ifland-More, lies to the Eaft of Vfhinefs in Le^visy about a League. There are three fmall Iflands here ; the two Southern Iflands are feparated only by Spring-tides, and are two miles in Circumference. Ifland-More hath a Chappel in it dedicated to the Virgin Mary^ and is fruitful in Corn and Grafs : the Ifland joining to it on the Weft is only for Paftu- rage. I faw a couple of Eagles here : the Na- tives told me, that thefe Eagles would never fufFer any of their kind to live there but them- felves, and that they drove away their young ones as foon as they were able to fly. And they told me likewife, that thofe Eagles are fo care- ful of the place of their abode, that they ne- ver yet killed any Sheep or Lamb in the Ifland, tho the Bones of Lambs, of Fawns, and Wild-Fowls, are frequently found in and about their Neits ; fo that they make their Purchafe in the oppofite Iflands, the, nearefl: of which is a League diftant. This Ifland is very ftrong and inacceflible, fave on one fide where the Afcent is narrow, and fomewhat re- fembling a Stair, but a great deal more- high and flreep ; notwithftanding which, the Cows pafs and repafs by it fafely, tho one would think it uneafy for a Man to climb. About a Musket-fhot further North hes the biggeft of

the

V/cJleyyi I /lands of Scotland. 17

the Iflands calPd More, being two miles in Circumference : It is fruitful in Corn and Paf- turage, the Cows here are much fatter than any I faw in the Ifland of Leivis. 1 here is a blue Stone in the Surface of the Ground here, moift while it lies there, but when dry, it be- comes very hard ; it is capable of any Imprefl fion, and I have feen a Sett of Table-Men made of this Stone, prettily carved with diffe- rent Figures. There is a Promontory in the North-end of the Ifland of Lewis^ calPd Eoropy- Fomt, which is fuppos'd to be the furtheft to North-weft of any part in Europe.

THESE Iflands are divided into two Pa- rifbes, one calPd Bar'va^, and the other Ey or T; both which are Parfonages, and each of them having a Minifter. The Names of the Churches in Lems Ifles, and the Sain s to whom they were dedicated, are St. CoLu/Kkily in the Ifland of that Name ; St. Pharaer in Kjiernefs^ St. Lermnn in Sternvay, St. Lollum in £j, St. Cutchou in Garbofi, St. Jula in Greafe^ St. Mrchael in Tollojta, St. Colltim in Ganeu^ St. Ronan in Eorobie, St. Thomas in H.ihojt^ St. Peter in ShanabofJ-, %t.Clen:en. m Dell, Holy- Crofs Church m Gala/?, St. Bno^ir in Bafove, St. Peter in Shiadir, St. Mary .in Barvas, St, 'John Bapttjl in Bragar, St. Kjaran in Ltmi^ Shddtr, St. Michael in lyjrvig, St. Macrel in Kjrlahofi, St. Dondan in Little Berncray^^z.Mt' child in the fame Ifland, St. Peter in PMay

Ifland,

28 ^Description of the

Illand, St. Chrifiofher\ Chappel in Vge^ and Stornvay Church : all thefe Churches and Chap- pels were, before the Reformation, Sandua- ries ; and if a Man had committed Murder, he was then fecure and fafe when once within their Precinfts.

THEY were in greater Veneration in thofe days than now : it was the conftant Pra£f ice of the Natives to kneel at firft fight of the Church, tho at a great diftance from 'em, and then they fa id their Pater-nojler. John Morifon of Braatr told me, that when he was a Boy, and going to the Church of St. Muhaj, he obferved the Natives to kneel and repeat the Pater-nojier at four miles diftance from the Church. The In- habitants of this Ifland had an antient Cuftom to facriiice to a Sea-God, call'd Shonj^ at Hallow- tide, in the manner following : The Inhabi- tants round the Ifland came to the Church of ^t.MuLvay^ having each Man hisProvifion along with him ; every Family furnifh'd a Peck of Malt, and this was brew'd into Ale : one of their number was pick'd out to wade into the Sea up to the middle, and carrying a Cup of Ale in his hand, ftanding ftill in that pofture, cry'd out with a loud Voice, faying, Shony, I give you this Cup of Ale, hoping that you^I be fo kind as to fend iis plenty of Sea-ware, for in- riching our Ground the enfuing Tear : and fo threw the Cup of Ale into the Sea. This was per- formed ia the Night time. At his Return to

Land,

Weflern Ijlands of Scotland. . 29

Land, they all went to Church, where there was a Candle burning upon the Altar; and then ftanding filent for a little time, one of them gave a Signal, at which the Candle was put out, and immediately all of them went to the Fields, where they fell a drinking their Ale, and fpent the remainder of the Night in Dan- cing and Singing, &c.

THE next Morning they all return'd home, being well fatisfy'd that they had pundually obferv'd this Solemn Anniveriary, which they believ'd to be a powerful means to procure a plentiful Crop. Mr. Daniel and Mr. K^enneth Morijon^ Minifters in Lewis^ told me they fpent feveral Years, before they could perfuade the vulgar Natives to abandon this ridiculous piece of Superftition ; which is quite abolifh'd for thefe 3 2 Years pad.

THE Inhabitants are all Proteftants, ex- cept one Family, who are Roman Catholicks. I was told, that about 14 Years ago, three or four Fifhermen, who then forfook the Prote- ftant Communion, and imbrac'd the Romifli Faith, having the opportunity of a Popifh Prieft on the place, they apply'd themfelves to him for fome of the Holy Water ; it being ufual for the Priefts to fprinkle it into the Bays, as an infallible means to procure plenty of Herring, as alfo to bring them into thofe Nets that are befprinkled with it. Thefe Fifhers according-

^ o ^Description of the

ly having got the Water, poured it upon theii Nets before they dropM them into the Sea they likewife turnM the infide of their Coat! outwards, after which they fet their Nets ir. the Evening at the ufual hour. The Proteitani Fifliers, who-us'd no other means than throw- ing their Nets into the Sea, at the fame time were unconcern'd ; but the Papifts being im- patient and full of expedation, got next Morn- ing betimes to draw their Nets, and being come to the place, they foon perceiv'd that all their Nets were loft ; but the Proteftants found their Nets fafe, and full of Herring : which was no fmall mortification to the Prieft and his Profe- iytes, and expos'd them to the derifion of their Neighbours.

THE Proteftant Natives obferve the Fefti-

vals of Chrijfmas, Good- Friday, Eajler, and Mi' chaelmas : upon this laft they have an Anniver- fary Cavalcade, and then both Sexes ride on horfe-back.

THERE is a Village call'd Storn^Bay, at the head of the Bay of that Name ; it confifts of about fixty Fam.ilies : there are fome Houfes of Entertainment in it, as alio a Church, and a School, in v/hich Lati^i and Englijh are taught. The Steward of the Lewis hath his Refidence in this Village. The Lerr/V, which was polTefs'd by Mack' Lead of Lewis for feveral Centuries, is, fmce the Reign of King 'Jawes the Sixth, be-

come

Wejlern Iflands of Scotland. 5 i

come the Property of the Earl of Seaforthy who ftill enjoys it.

rheljle 0/ HARRIES.

TH E Harries being feparated from Lewis is 18 Miles, from the Hujhinefs on the Weft Ocean to Loch-Seafort in the Eaft ; from this bounding to the Point of Strof^d in the South of Harries, it is 24 Miles ; and in fome places 4, 5, and 6 Miles in breadth. The Soil is almoft the fame with that of Lervis^ and it produces the fame forts of Corn, but a greater Increafe.

V THE Air is temperately cold, and the Na- tives endeavour to qualify it by taking a Dofe of Aquavit^a, or Brandy ; for they brew no fuch Liquors as Treflarig, or Vfquebaugh-bauL The Eaftern Coaft of Harries is generally rocky and mountainous, cover'd with Grafs and Heath. The Weft fide is for the moft part arable on the Sea-Coaft; fome parts of the Hills on the Eaft fide are naked without Earth. The Soil being dry and fandy, is fruit- ful when manur'd •with Sea-ware. The Grafs pn the Weft fide is moft Clover and Dafy, v^hich in the Summer yields a moft fragrant Smell. Next to Loch-Svafort, w^hich for Ibme miles divides the Lewis from Harries, is the notable Harbour within the Ifland, by fea- ;_ faring

^2 ^Description of the

faring Men call'd GUfs, and by the Natives Scalpa : it is a mile and a half long from South to North, and a mile in breadth. There is an Entrance on the South and North ends of the Ifle, and feveral good Harbours in each, well known to the generality of Seamen. Within the Ifle is Loch-Tarhatj running 4 miles Weft ; it hath feveral fmall Ifles, and is fometimes frequented by Herring. Without the Loch there is plenty of Cod, Ling, and large Eels.

ABOUT half a League further on the fame Coaft, lies Loch-Stoknefs^ which is about a mile m length : there is a frefh-water Lake at the Entrance of the Ifland, which affords Oyfters, and feveral forts of Fi(h, the Sea having accefs to it at Spring-tides.

A B O U T a League and a half farther South, is Loch-Fintsb(iy^ an excellent, tho unknown Harbour : the Land lies low, and hides it from the fight of the fea-faring Men, till they come very near the Coaft. 7 here are, befides this Harbour, many Creeks on this fide, for Barks andlelTer Boats.

F R E S H- water Lakes abound in this Ifland, and are well ftor'd with Trout, Eels, and Sal-, mon. Each Lake has a River running from it to the Sea, from whence the Salmon comes about the beginning of A%, and fooner if the Seafon

be

Weftern Jflands of Scotland, 3 3

be warm. The beft time for angling for Sal- mon and Trout, is when a warm South-weft Wind blows. They ufe Earth-worms com- monly for Bait, but Cockles attrad the Salmon better than any other.

THERE is variety of excellent Springs

iTuing from all the Mountains of this Ifland,

)ut the Wells on the Plains near the Sea 'are

not good. There is one remarkable Fountain

ately difcover'd near Marvag-hou^QS, on the

Eaftern Coaft, and has a large Stone by it,

which is fufficient to direft a Stranger to it.

The Natives find by experience that it is very

effectual for reftoring loft Appetite; all that

drink of it become very foon hungry, though

they have eat plentifully but an hour before :

the truth of this was confirm'd to me by thofe

that were perfectly well, and alfo by thofe

that were infirm ; for it had the fame effed on

both.

THERE is a Well in the Heath, a mile to the Eaft from the Village Bc?r^/f ; the Natives fay that they find it efficacious againft Cho- icks, Stitches, and Gravel.

THERE are feveral Caves in the Moun- tains, and on each fide the Coaft : the largeft md beft fortify'd by Nature, is that in the Hill Vliveal., in the middle of a high Rock ; the ^^affage leading to it is fo narrOWj, that one C only

54 ^Description of the

only can enter at a time. This advantage renders it fecure from any Attempt ; for one fingle Man is able to keep off a thoufand, if he have but a Staff in his hand, fince with the leaft touch of it he may throw the ftrongeft Man down the Rock. The Cave is capacious enough for 50 Men to lodg in : it hath two Wells in it, one of which is excluded from Dogs ; for they fay that if a Dog do but tafte of the Water, the Well prefently dryeth up : and for this reafon, all fuch as have occafion to lodg there, take care to tie their Dogs, that they may not have accefs to the Water. The other Well is calFd the Dogs- Well, and is only drunk by them.

THERE are feveral antient Forts erected here, which the Natives fay were built by the Daf^es : they are of a round form, and have very thick Walls, and a Paffage in 'em by : wiiich one can go round the Fort. Some of the Stones that compofe 'em are very large : thefe Forts are named after the Villages in. which they are built, as that mBorve is call'd Donm-Borve, 8cc. They are built at convenient diftances on each fide the Coaff, and there is a Fort built in every one of the lefTer Ifles.

THERE are feveral Stones here erefted on one end, one of which is in the Village of' Borve^ about 7 foot high. There is another' Stone of the fame height to be feen in the op-

pofite

Wcftern Ijlmds of Scotlan«J. 3 5

pofite Ifle of Faranfaji There are feveral Heaps of Stones, commonly call'd Kjirnes, on the tops of Hills and rifing Grounds on the Coafl-, upon which they us'd to burn Heath, as a Signal of an approaching Enemy. There was always a Sentinel at each Kjir/^e to obferve the Sea-Coaft- ; the Steward of the Ifle made fre- quent Rounds, to take notice of the Sentinels, and if he found any of them afleep, he firript them of their Clothes, and defer'd their per- fonal Punifhments to the Proprietor of the Place. This Ifle produceth the fame kind of Cattle, Sheep, and Goats, th^it are in the Lewis, The Natives gave mean account, that a Couple of Goats did grow wild on the Hills, and after they had increased, they were obferv'd to bring forth their Young twice a Year.

THERE are abundance of Deer in the Hills and Mountains here, commonly called the Forefl: ; which is 18 miles in length from Eafl: to Wefl: : the number of Deer computed to be in this place, is at leafl: 2000 ; and there is none permitted to hunt there without a Licence from the Steward to the Forefler. There is a particular Mountain, and above a Mile of Ground furrounding it, to v/hich no Man hath accefs to hunt, this place being re- ferv'd for Mack-leod himfelf ; who when he is difpos'd to hunt, is fure to find Game enough there*

' C 2 BOTH

l6 ^ Description of the

BOTH Hills and Valleys in the Foreft are well provided with plenty of good Grafs mix'd with Heath, which is all the fhelter thefe Deer have during the Winter and Spring : there is not a Shrub of Wood to be feen in all the Foreft ; and when a Storm comes, the Deer betake themfelves to the Sea-Coaft, where they feed upon the J Iga Mar ma ^ or Sea-rvare.

THE Meririck, a four-footed Creature, a- bout the fize of a big Cat, is pretty nume- rous in this Ifle : they have a fine Skin, which is fmooth as any Fur, and of a brown Colour. They fay that the Dung of this Animal yields a Scent like Musk.

THE JmphihJa here are Otters and Seals: the latter are eat by the meaner fort of People, who fay they are very nourifhing. The Na- tives take them with Nets, whofe ends are tyed by a Rope to the ftrong Jiga^ or Sea-ware^ grQwing on the Rocks.

THIS Ifland abounds with variety of Land and Sea- Fowl, and particularly with very good Hawks.

THERE are Eagles here of two forts ; j

the one is of a large fize and grey colour, and thefe are very deftrudive to the Fawns, Sheep, and Lambs,

THE

Weftcm JJlands of Scotland. 57

THE other is confiderably lefs, and black, and fliap'd like a Hawk, and more de(i:ru6live to the Deer, &c, than the bigger fort.

THERE is no venomous Creatures of any kind here, except a Httle Viper, which was not thought venomous till of late, that a Wo- man died of a Wound fhe rfceiv'd from one of them.

I H AV E feen a great many Rats in the V il- lage Rowdily which became very troublefome to the Natives, and deftroy'd all their Corn, Milk, Butter, Cheefe, &c. They could not extirpate thefe Verniin for fome time by all their endeavours. A confiderable number of Cats was employ'd for this end, but were if ill worfted, ancl became perfe8:ly faint, becaufe overpower'd by the Rats, who were twenty to one. At length one of the Natives, of more fagacity than his Neighbours, found an Expe- dient to renew his Cat's Strength and Courage, which was by giving it warm Milk after every Encounter with the Rats ; and the like being given to all the other Cats afcer every Battle, fucceeded fo well, that they left not one Rat alive, notwithstanding the great number of them in the place.

O N the Eaft-fide the Village Ro^vdil, there

is a Circle of Stone, within S Yards of the

C ? Shore;

3 8 .// Dii S C R i P T I O N of the

Shore : it's about 3 fathom under Water, and about tv/o trories high ; it is in form broader ibove than below, like to the lower ftory of a Kiln : I faw it perfeftly on one fide, but the Seafon being then windy, hinder'd me from a iull view of it. The Natives fay that there is fuch another Circle of iefs compafs in the Pool BorodH, on the other fide the Bay.

THE Shore on the Weft Coaft of this iQand affords variety of curious Shells and Walks ; as 'Teflin^i and Turbines of various kinds ; thin Va.te\U^ ftreaked blue, various co- iour'd ; Pccfem.^, fome blue, and fome of Orange Colours.

THE Os'Sepie is found on the Sand in great quantities. The Natives pulverize it, and take a Dofe of it in boiPd Milk, which is found by experience to be an eEPedual Remedy a- gainft the Diarrhea and Dyfenteria. They rub th.s Powder likewife, to take off the Film on the Eyes of Sheep»

THERE is variety of Nuts, czWd Mo/Iuk a Beans, fome of which are ufed as Amulets againft Witchcraft, or an evil Eye, particu- larly the white one ; and upon this account they are wore about Childrens Necks, and if any Evil is intended to them, they fay the Nut changes into a black colour. That they did change colour, I found true by my own

obferr

Wejlcni Iflands of Scotland. 39

obfervatlon, but cannot be pofitive as to the Caufe of it.

MALCOM Campbell, Steward of Harries^ told me, that fome Weeks before my arrival there, all his Cows gave Blood inftead of Milk, for feveral days together : one of the Neighbours told his Wife that this mull be Witchcraft, and it would be eafy to remove it, if fhe would but take the white Nut, caird the Virgin Marfs Nut, and lay it in the Pail into which fhe was to milk the Cows. This Ad- vice fhe prefently follow'd, and having milk'd one Cow into the Pale with the Nut in it, the Milk was all Blood, and the Nut chang'd irs colour into dark brown : flie ufed the Nut again, and all the Cows gave pure good Milk, which theyafcribe to the Virtue of the Nut. This very Nut Mr. Campbell prefcnted me with, and I keep it ftill by me.

SOME fmall quantity of Ambergreafe hzth. been found on theCoaft of the lOand Berr/era^ I was told that a Weaver in this Ifland had burnt a lunlp of it, to fliow him a Light for the moft part of the Night, but the ftrong Scent of \i made his Head ake exceedingly, by which it was difcover'd.

AN antient V/oman, about fixty Years of

age, here loft her Hearing ; and having no

Phyfician to give her Advice, flie would needs

C 4 try

4p .^ D fi s c R I p T 1 o N o/" t/?e

try an experiment her felf, which was thus : She took a Quill with which fhe ordinarily fnufhed her Tobacco, and filling it with the Powder of Tobacco, pour'd it into her Ear ; which had the defir'd efFed, for fhe could hear perfedly well next day. Another Neigh- bour about the fame Age, having loft her Hearing fome time after, recover'd it by the fame Experiment, as^ I was told by the Na- tives.

THE Sheep which feed here on fandy Ground, become blind fometimes, and are cur'd by rubbing Chalk in their Eyes.

A SERVANT of Sir Normond Mackleod\ living in the liland of Bernera^ had a Mare that brought forth a Fole with both the hinder Feet cloven, which died about a Year after : ihc Natives concluded that it was a bad Omeri to the Owner, and his Death, which fbllow'd in a few Years after, confirmed them in their Opinion.

THE Natives make ufe of the Seeds of a while wild Carrot, inftead of Hops, for brew- ing their Beer ; and they fay that it anfwers the end fufficiently well, and gives the Drink a good Relifh befides.

JOHN CAMPBELL, Forefter of //^r^ rie]^ makes ufe of this fmgular Remedy for

Wejlern Iflands of Scothnd, 41

a Cold : He walks into the Sea up to the middle with his Clothes on, and immediately after goes to bed in his wet Clothes, and thea laying the Bed-clothes over him, procures a Sweat, which removes the Diftemper ; and. this he told me is his only P.emedy for all man^ ner of Colds. One of the fa id Jolm CamphePs Servants having his Cheek fwelFd, and there being no Phyfician near, he ask'd his Mailer's Advice : he knew nothing proper for him, but however bid him apply a Plaifter of warm Bar- ley-Dough to the place affe(^ed. This af- fuaged the Swelling, and drew out of the Flefli a little Worm, about half an inch in length, and about the bignefs of a Goofe-quill, having a pointed Head, and many little Feet on each fide : this Worm they call FilUn^ and it hath been found in the Head and Neck of feveral Perfons that I have feen in the Ifle of Skie,

ALLIVM LatifoUum, a kind of wild G^r- Ikk, is much ufed by fome of the Natives, as a Remedy againft the Stone : they boil it in Water, and drink the Infufion, and it expels Sand powerfully with great eafe.

THE Natives told me, that the Rock on the Eaft-fide of Harries^ in the Sound of Ifland GUfs^ hath a Vacuity near the Front, on the Northwell fide of the Sound ; in which they fay there is a Stone that they call the Ltmar- Stoae^ which advances and retires according to the Increafe and Decreafe of the Moon.

A

42 ^ D E s c R I p T I o N o/ rk

A POOR Man bom in the Village K^pjr^//,

commonly call'd Si. Clements-blind^ loft his Sight at every Change of the Moon, which oblig'd him to keep his bed for a day or two, and then he recover'd his Sight.

THE inferiour Iflands belonging to Harries^ are as follow : The Ifland Bernera is five miles in Circumference, and lies about two Leagues to the South of Harries. The Soil is fandy for the moft part, and yields a great ProduA of Barley and Rye in a plentiful Year, efpe- cially if the Ground be enrich'd by Sea- ware, and that there be Rain enough to fatisfy the dry Soil. I had the opportunity to travel this Ifland feveral times, and upon a fh"i£l enquiry I found the Produd of Barley to be fometimes twenty fold and upwards, and at that time all the Eaft-fide of the Ifland pro- duc'd thirty fold. This hath been confirm'd to me by the Natives, particularly by Sir Nor- mond Mackleod, who polTelTes the Ifland : he likewife confirm'd to me the account given by all the Natives of Hxrries and South-Vifi^ n)iz., that one Barley-Grain produceth in fome places 7, lo, 12, and 14 Ears of Barley; of which he himfelf being diffident for fome time, was at the pains to fearch nicely the Root of one Grain after fome Weeks growth, and found that from this one Grain many Ears had been grown up. But this happens not, ex- cept

Wefrcrn IJlands of Scotland. ,45

cept when the Seafon is very favourable, or in Grounds that have not been cultivated fome Years before ; which if manur'd wkhSea-warey feldom fail to produce an extraordinary Crop. It is obferv'd in this Ifland, as elfewhere, that when the Ground is dug up with Spades, and the Turfs turn'd upfide down, and covered with Sea-ware, it yields a better Produft than when it is plow'd.

THERE is a frefh-water Lake in this Ifland, caird Loch-Bruifi, in which there are fmall Iflands abounding with Land and Sea- Fowl, which build there in the Summer. There is likewife plenty of Eels in this Lake, which are eafiefl: caught in September ; and then the Natives carry Lights with them in the Night-time to the Rivulet running from the Lake, in which the Eels fall down to the Sea in heaps together.

THIS Ifland in the Summer is cover'd all over with Clover and Dafy, except in the

! Corn-fields. There is to. be ^qqr about the Houfes of Bernera^ for the fpace of a mile, a

I foft Subftance, in fliew and colour exa£fly refembling the Sea-plant, calPd SUke, and grows very thick among the Grafs. The Na-

i tives fay, that it is the Produft of a dry hot Soil ; it grows likewife in the tops of feveral Hills in the Ifland of Harms.

IT'S

44 ^ D E S C R I P T I O N o/ f/;f

IT'S proper to add here an Account of fc- Tcral ftrange Irregularities in the Tides, on Bernem Coaft, by Sir Robert Murraj^ mentioned in the PhiL Tranfacfions,

THE Tides increafe and decreafe gradually, according to the Moon's Age, fo as about the third day after the new and full Moon, in the Weftern Ifles and Continent they are common- ly at the higheft, and about the Quarter Moons at the lowert: : (the former calPd Spring- Tides, the other Neap-Tides.) The Tides from the Quarter to the higheft Spring-Tide increafe in a certain proportion, and from the Spring-Tide to the Quarter-Tide in like pro- portion : and the Ebbs rife and fall always after the fame manner.

IT'S fuppos'd that the Increafe of Tides is made in the proportion of Sines : the firft In- creafe exceeds the loweft in a fmall proportion, the next in a greater, the third greater than that, and fo on to the middle-moft, whereof the Excefs is the greateft \ diminifliing again from that to the higheft Spring-Tide, fo as the Proportions before and after the middle, do anfwer one another. And likewife from the higheft Spring-Tide to the loweft Neap-Tide, the Decreafes feem to keep the like proportions : And this commonly falls out when no Wind, or other Accident caufes an alteration. At the

beginrifng

Wejlern Iflands of Scothnd, 4)

beginning of each Flood on the Coaft, the Tide moves fafter, but in a fmall degree, in- creafing its Swiftnefs till towards the middle of the Flood ; and then decreafing in Swift- nefs again from the middle to the top of the High-water : it's fuppofed that the inequal Spaces of Time, the Increafe and Decreafe of Swiftnefs, and confequently the degrees of the Rifings and Fallings of the fame inequal Spa- ces of Time, are perform'd according to the proportion of Sines. The proportion cannot hold precifely and exa8:ly in regard of the In- equalities that fall out in the Periods of the Tides, which are believ'd to follow certain Po- rtions of the Moon in regard of the Equinox, which are known not to keep a precife con- ftant Courfe : fo that there not being equal Portions of Time between one new Moon and mother, the Moon's Return to the fame Me- Iridian cannot be always perform'd in the fame jtime. ^nd the Tides from new Moon being not always the fame in number, or fometimes but 57, fometimes 58, fometimes 59, (with- out any certain Order or SucceflTion) is another Evidence of tlie difficulty of reducing this to iny great ExaQnefs.

I AT the Eaft end of this Ifle, there is a [Grange Reciprocation of the Flux and Reflux of :he Sea. There is another no lefs remarkable jpon the Weft fide of the Long Ifland : the rides which come from the South- weft, run I along

4^ ^ D E S C R 1 P T I O N o/ tfc

along the Coaft Northward ; fo that during the ordinary Courfe of the Tides, the Flood runs Eaft in the Frithy where Berneray lies, and the Ebb Weft : and thus the Sea ebbs and flows orderly, fome four days before the Full and Change, and as long after ; (the ordinary Spring-Tides rifing fome 14 or 1 5 foot upright- and all the reft proportionably, as in other places) but afterwards, for four days before the Quarter Moons, and as long after, there is conftantly a great and Angular Variation. For then (a Southerly Moon making there the full Sea) the Courfe of the Tide being Eaftward, when it begins to flow, which is about 94 oj the clock, it not only continues fo about ^ in the Afternoon, that it be High- water ; but after it begins to ebb, the Current runs on ftill Eaftward during the whole Ebb : fo that it runs Eaftward 1 2 hours together, that is, all daylong, from about 94- in the Morning till about 9 ! at Night. But then when the Night- Tide begins to flow, the Current turns, and runs Weft ward all Night, during both Flood and Ebb, for fome 12 hours more, as it did Eaftward the day before. And thus the Reci- procations continue, one Flood and Ebb run- ning 1 2 hours Eaftward, and another 12 hours Weftward, till 4 days before the Full and New Moon ; and then they refume their ordinary regular Courfe as before, running Eaft during the fix hours of Flood, and Weft during the flx of Ebb.

THERE

Wejlem Ipands of Scotland. 47

THERE is another extraordinary Irregu- larity in the Tides, which never fail ; That whereas between the Vernal and Autumnal E- quinox, that is, for fix Months together, the Courfe of irregular Tides about the Quarter Moons, is to run all day, 1 2 hours, as from a- bout 9 i. to 94 or 10, exaft Ealtward ; all night, that is, 1 2 hours more, Weftward : during the other fix Months, from the Autumnal to the Vernal Equinox, the Current runs all day Weft- ward, and all night Eaftward. I have obferv'd the Tides as above, for the fpace of feme days both in Jprilf May^ jf«/j, and Augufi. 'J he Na- tives have frequent opportunities to fee this both day and night, and they all agree that the Tides run as mention'd above.

there's a Couple of Ravens in this Ifland, which beat away all ravenous Fowls, and when their Young are able to fly abroad, they beat them alfo out of the Ifland, but not without many blows, and a great noife.

THERE are two Chappels in this Ifle, to wit, St. JfaplPs and St. Columbush Chappel. There is a Stone ere£ted near the former, which is eight foot high, and two foot thick.

ABOUT half a League from Bernera^ to the Weftward, lies the Ifland Pdbajy j miles in Circumference, and having a Mountain in the middle. The Soil is fandy, and fruit- ful

48 ^Description of the

ful in Corn and Grafs, and the Natives have lately difcover'd here a white Marble. The Weft end of this Ifland, which looks to St, Kjl- day is caird the Wooden Harbour, becaufe the Sands at Low- Water difcover feveral Trees that have formerly grown there. Sir Normoni Mackleod told me, that he had feen a Tree cue there, which was afterwards ^made into a Harrows

THERE are two Chappels in this Ifland, one of which is dedicated to the Virgin Mary^ the other to St. Mr/luag,

THE Steward of K^flday who lives in Pah' %, is accuftom'd in time of a Storm to tie a bundle of Puddings, made of the Fat of Sea- Fowl, to the end of his Cable, and lets it fall into the Sea behind the Rudder : this, he fays, hinders the Waves from breaking, and calms the Sea ; but the Scent of the Greafe attracts the Whales, which put theVeffel in danger.

ABOUT half a League to the North oF Fabbajy lies the Ille Sellay^ a Mile in Circum- ference, that yields extraordinary Palhirage for Sheep, fo that they become fat very foon ; they have the biggeft Horns that ever I faw on Sheep.

ABOUT a League farther to the North, lies the lile r^r4;^A?j', very fruitful in Corn and

Grafs,

Wefiern Jjlands of Scotland/ 49

tirafs, and yields much yellow Talk. It is 5 Miles in Circumference, and has two Chap- pels, One dedicated to St. Tarra^i^ the other to

St. Kfitk

THERE is an antient Tradition among the Natives here, that a Man muft not bs bury'd in St. Tarrant, nor a Woman in" St. Kjithhy becaufe otherwife the Corps would be found above-ground the day after it is in- terred. I told them this was a moft ridicu* lous Fancy, which they might foon perceive by xperience, if they would but put it to a tryal. Roderick Campbell, who relides there, being of my opinion, refolved to embrace the firft opportunity that offer'd, in order to un- deceive the credulous Vulgar ; and according- y a poor Man in this Ifland, who died a Year ifter, was bury'd in St. Tarran\ Chappel, con- rary to the antient Cuftom and Tradition of his place, but his Corps is ftill in the Grave, Tom whence it is not like to rife until the ge- leral Refurreftion. This Inftance has deli- ^er'd the credulous Natives from this unrea- bnable Fancy. This Ifland is a mile diitant rom the main Land of Harries^ and when the Inhabitants go from this Ifland to Harrtes with . defign to ftay for any time, they agree with hofe that carry them over, on a particular lotion of walking upon a certain piece of ,i round, unknown to every body but them- plves, as a Signal to bring 'em back. '■ D THREE

50 ^ D E S C K 1 P T I O N o/ f /je

THREE Leagues to the Weft ward of this Ifland, lies Gasker, about half a mile in Cir- cumference : it excels any other Plot of its extent, for Fruitfulnefs in Grafs and Product of Milk; it maintains 8 or lo Cows. The Natives kill Seals here, which are very big.

ABOUT two Leagues farther North lies the Ifland Scarp, two miles in Circumference, and is a high Land cover'd with Heath and

Grafs.

BETWEEN Ber^era and the main Land

of Harries lies the Ifland E/ifaj, which is above two miles in Circumference, and for the mofl: part arable Ground, which is fruitful in Corn and Grafs : there is an old Chappel here, for the ufe of the Natives; and there was lately difcover'd a Grave in the Well: end of the Ifland, in which was found a pair of Scales made of Brafs, and a little Hammer, both which were finely pohfh'd. j]

BETWEEN Efjfaj and the main Land of Harries, lie feveral fmall Iflands, fitter for Paf- turage than Cultivation.

THE little Idznd J^edam hath a Vein of Adamant Stone, in the front of the Rock. The Natives lay that Mice don't live in this Ifland, , ;jr»d when they chance to be carry'd thither ^

among'

Wejiern JJJands of Scotland. 5 1

among Corn, they die quickly after. Without thefe fmall Iflands, there is a Trad of fmall Ifles in the fame Line with the Eaft fide of the Harries and North-Vifi : they are in all refpefts of the fame nature with thofe two Iflands, fo that the fight of them is apt to difpofe one to think that they have been once united together*

THE moft Southerly of thefe Iflands, and the nearefl: to North -Fiji is Her met ra.^ two miles In Circumference : it is a moorifh Soil, co- 7er'd all over almoft: with Heath, except here md there a few Piles of Grafs, and the Plant Milk- wort ; yet notwithfl:anding this difad- /antage, it is certainly the beft Spot of its extent, for Pafl:urage, among thefe Ifles, and iffords great plenty of Milk in January and iv- Iruary beyond what can be feen in tne other [flands.

I SAW here the Foundation of a Houfe |)uilt by the Engliflj, in K. Charles the Firfl:'s fime, for one of their Magazines to lay up the uask, Salt, &c, for carrying on theFifliery, vhidi was then begun in the Wellern Iflands ; iut this Defign milcarry'd becaufe of the Civil fVars, which then broke out.

.THE Channel between //^mw and North- ''ifiy is above three Leagues in breadth, and bounds with Rocks, as well under as above f ater : tho at the fame time VeiTels of joo D 2 Tuqs

52 c// DeS CRIPTI ON of the

Tuns have gone through it, from Eaft to Weft, having the advantage of one of the Natives for a Pilot. Some i6 Years ago, one Captain Frofi was fafely condufled in this manner. The Harries belongs in Property to the Laird of Mackleod : he and all the Inhabitants are Proteftants, and obferve the Feftivals of Chri/l- mai^ Good-Friday, and St. MichaePs Day ; upor the latter, they rendezvous on horfe-back, and make their Cavalcade on the Sands at low Water.

THE Ifland of AW//>r//? lies about three Leagues to the South of the Iftand of Harries being in form of a Semicircle, the Diamete of which looks to the Eaft, and is mountainou and full of Heath, and fitter for Pafturage thai Cultivation. The Weft fide is of a quite dif ferent Soil, arable and plain : the whole is ij length from South to North nine miles, am about thirty in Circumference.

. THERE are four Mountains in the mid die, two lie within lefs than a mile of eacl othe.iV'^nd are calPd South and North-Lee, Al the Hills and Heath afford good Pafturage, th it confifts as much of Heath as Grafs. Th, arable Ground hath a mixture of Clay in fom places, and it is cover'd all over in Summer time and Harveft-with Clover, Dafy, an( variety of other Plants, pleafant to the Sight ^i\A of a ,very fragrant Smell ; and abound

witl

Wcjlern TJlands 0/ Scotland. j^

with black Cattle and Sheep The Soil is very grateful to the Husbandman, yielding a Pro- duce of Barley, from ten to thirty fold in a plentiful Y.ear ; provided the Ground be ma- nur'd with Sea-ware, and that it' have Rain proportionable to the Soil. I have upon feveral occafions enquired concerning the Produce of Barley, in this and the neighbouring Iflands; the fame being much doubted in the South of ScotUnd, as well as in EngLtnd : and upon the whole, I have been affur'd by the moft ah- tientand induftrious of the Natives, that the Increafe is the fame as mention'd b,efore in Harries,

THEY told me likewife, that a Plot of Ground which hath lain unmanur'd for fome Years, would in a plentiful feafon produce fourteen Ears of Barley from one Grain ; and feveral Ridges were then Ibew'd me of this jextraordinary Growth in different places. The JGrain fown.here is Barley, Oats, Rye; and lit's not to be doubted but the Soil would alfo {produce Wheat. The way of Tillage here is [commonly by ploughing, and fome by digging. jThe ordinary Plough is drawn by four Horfes, ^i?d they have a little Plough alfo calPd Rillle, i.e. a thing that cleaves, the Culter of which is in form of a Sickle ; and it is drawn fome- times by one, and fometimes by two fiorfes, .according as the Ground is. The Defign of itliis little Plough is to draw a deep Line in D ^ the

54 ^Description of the

the Ground, to make it the more eafy for the big Plough to follow, which otherwife would be much retarded by the ftrong Roots of Bent lying deep in the Ground, that are cut by the little Plough. When they dig v/ith Spades, it producethmore Increafe: the little Plough is iikewife ufed to facilitate digging as well as ploughing. They continue to manure the Ground until the tenth of 'June, if they have plenty of Braggir, i. e. the broad Leaves grow- ing on the top of the Alga-Marina.

ABOUT a League and a half to the South of the Ifland Her met r a in Harries y lies Loch* Maddjy fo call'd from the three Rocks without the Entry on the South fide. They are call'd Maddies, from the great quantity ^ big Muf- cles, call'd Maddies^ that grows upon them. This Harbour is capacious enough for fome hundreds of VefTels of any Burden : it hath feveral Ifles within it, and they contribute to the Security of the Harbour, for a VeiTel may fafely come clofe to the Key. The Seamen divide the Harbour in two parts, calling the South fide Loch'Maddy, and the North fide Loch-Part an. There is one Ifland in the South i Loch, which for its Commodioufnefs is by the: Englifh call'd ISlonfuch, This Loch hath been; famous for the great quantity of Herrings- yearly taken in it within thefe fifty Years laftl paft. The Natives told me, that in the me- mory of fome yet alive, there had been 400

Sail

Wefiern I/lands of Scotland. 55

Sail loaded in it with Herrings at one Seafon ; but it is not now frequented for Fifhing, tlio the Herrings do ftill abound in it : and on this Coaft every Summer and Harveft, the Natives fit angling on the Rocks, and as they pull up their Hooks, do many times bring up Herrings. That they are always on the Coaft, appears from the Birds, Whales, and other Fiflies, that are their Forerunners every where ; and yet it is ftrange, that in all this Illand there is not one Herring-Net to be had : but if the Natives faw any Encouragement, they could foon provide 'em. Cod, Ling, and all forts of Filh taken in thefe Iflands, abound in and about this Lake.

IN this Harbour there is a. fmall Ifland caird Fackfaj, in which there is ftill to be feeit the Foundation of a Houfe, built by the Er/g^ lijh, for a Magazine to keep their Cask, Salt, &c. for carrying on a great Fifhery which was

i then begun there. The Natives told me, that

; King Charles the Firft had a fliare in it. This Lake, with the Convenience of its Filhings and

: Iflands, is certainly capable of great Improve- ment : much of the Ground about the Bay is

j capable of Cultivation, and affords a great deal of Fuel, as Turff, Peats, and plenty of frefli

' Water. It alfo affords a good quantity of Oyfters, and Clam-fliell-fifli ; the former grow on Rocks, and are fo big that they are cut in

i four pieces before they are eat.

' ^ D 4 . ABOUT

^6 ^Description of the

ABOUT half a mile further South is Loch- Eport, having a Rock without the Mouth of the Entry, which is narrow : the Lake pene- trates fome miles towards the Weft, and is a good Harbour, having feveral fmall Ifles with- in it. The Seals are very numerous here. In the Month of July the Spring-Tides carry in a great quantity of Mackrel, and at the return of the Water they are found many times lying on the Rocks. The vulgar Natives make ufe of the Afhes of burnt Sea-ware, which pre- ferves them for fome time inftead of Salt.

ABOUT two miles to the South of Loch- Eport lies the Bay call'd the Kj^le of Rona ; having the Ifland of that name (which is a lit- tle Hill) within the Bay : there is a Harbour on each fide of it. This Place hath been found of great convenience for the tifhing of Cod and Ling, which abound on this Coaft. There is a little Chappel in the Ifland Ron^^ call'd the Low-tanders Chappel, becaufe Seamen who d'lQ m time of lifhing, are bury'd in that place.

THERE is a Harbour on the South fide theliland Borna ; the Entry feems to be nar- rower than really it is : the Ifland and the op- pofice Point of Land appear like two little Pro- montories off at Sea. Some Veffels have been, forc'd m there by Storm, as was Captain Pe- ters

IVcftcrn Ijlands of Scotland. 57

ters a Dutch Man, and after him an Englifb Ship, who both approv'd of this Harbour. The former built a Cock-boat there on a Sun- day, at which the Natives were much offen- ded : The latter having landed in the Ifland, happen'd to come into a Houfe where he found only ten Women, and they were employed (as he fuppos'd) in a ftrange manner, ^iz, their Arms and Legs were bare, being five on a fide ; and between them lay a Board, upon which they had laid a piece of Cloth, and were thickning of it with their Hands and Feet, and Tinging all the while. The E/^gUjJj-m^n. prefently concluded it to be a IktlQ BeiHam, which he did not expect in fo remote a Corner : and this he told to Mr. Joh^ MackleaK, who polTelTes the liland. Mr. IvUcklenn anfwer'd, he never faw any mad People in thofe Iflands : but this would not fatisfy him, till they both went to the place where the Women were at work ; and then Mr. Macklean having told him, that it was their common way of thickning Cloth, he was convinc'd^ tho furpriz'd at the manner of it.

THERE is fuch a number of frefh- water Lakes here, as can hardly be believ'd : I my felf and feveral others endeavour'd to number them, but in vain, for they are fo difpos'd into turnings, that it is impracticable. They are : generally well ftock'd with Trouts and Eels, •and fome of 'em with Salmon j and which is

yet

58 ^//Description of the

yet more ftrange, Cod, Ling, Mackrel, &c. are taken in thefe Lakes, into which they are t)rought by the Spring-Tides.

THESE Lakes have many .fmall iQands, which in Summer abound with variety of Land and Sea-Fowls, that build and hatch there. There be alfo feveral Rivers here, which aiford Salmon : one fort of them is very fmgular, that iscaU'd Marled Salmon, or, as the Natives call it, Jeskdruimwy being lefTer than the ordinary Salmon, and full of ftrong large Scales ; no Bait can allure it, and a Shadow frights it away, being the wildeft of Fifhes : it leaps high above water, and delights to be in the Surface of it.

THE RE's great plenty of Shell-fifh round this Ifland, more particularly Cockles: the Iflands do alfo afford many fmall Fifh calPd Eels, of a whitifh colour ; they are picked out of the Sand with a fmall crooked Iron made on purpofe. There is plenty of Lobfters on the Weft fide of this Ifland, and one fort bigger than the reft, having the Toe fhorter and broader.

THERE are feveral antient Forts in this Ifland, built upon Eminences, or in the middle of frefh-water Lakes.

H E R E are likewife feveral Kairns or Heaps of Stones ; the biggeft I obferv'd was on a Hill near to Loch-Epor;. There are three Stones

erefbed

Wejlern IJlands of Scotland. 59

ere£led about five foot high, at the diftance of a quarter of a mile from one another, on Emi- nences about a mile from Loch-Maddy, to amufe Invaders ; for vi^hich reafon they are ftill call'd falfe Sentinels.

THERE is a Stone of 24 foot long and 4 in breadth in the Hill Crinived : the Natives fay, la Giant of a Month old was bury'd under it. There is a very confpicuous Stone in the face of the Hill above St. P^^^r's Village, above eight foot high.

THERE is another about eight foot high at Dorvn-rojfely which the Natives call a Crois. There are two broad^ Stones about eight foot high, on the Hill two miles to the South of

Vday.

THERE is another at the Key, oppofite to Kjrkibafi^ 1 2 foot high : the Natives fay that Delinquents were ty'd to this Stone in time of Divine Service.

THERE is a Stone in form of a Crofs in the Row, oppofite to St. Mary's Church, about 5 foot high : the Natives call it the Water- Crofs, for the antient Inhabitants had a Cuftom of erefting this fort of Crofs to procure Rain, and when they had got enough, they laid it flat on the ground, but this Cuftom is now difufed. The inferiour Ifland is the lHand of Heiskir^

which

6o ^ De S CKIVTI O N of the

which lies near three Leagues Weftward of Nonh-Fi/i; is three miles in Circumference, of a fandy Soil, and very fruitful in Corn and Grafs, and black Cattle. The Inhabitants la- bour under want of Fuel of all forts, which obliges them to burn Cows- Dung, Barley-ftraw, anddry'd Sea- ware: the Natives told me, that Bread baked by the Fuel of Sea-ware, rehfhes better than that done otherwife. They are ac- cuftom'd to fait their Cheefe with the Afhes of Barley-ftraw, which they fuffer not to lie on it above 1 2 hours time, becaufe otherwife it would fpoil it. There was a Stone-Chelf lately dif- cover'd here, having an earthen Pitcher in it which was full of Bones, and as f9on as touch'd they turn'd to Duft.

THERE are two fmall Iflands feparated ' by narrow Channels from the North weft of this Iflaad, and are of the fame Mould with the big Idand. The Natives fay, that there is a Couple of Ravens there, which fuffer no other of their Kind to approach this Idand, and if any fuch chance to come, this Couple immediately drive them away, with fuch a noife as is heard by all the Inhabitants : they are obferv'd like- wife to beat away their Young as foon as they be able to purchafe for,themfelves. The Na- tives told me, that when one of this Couple hap- pen'd to be wounded by Gun-fhor, it lay ftili in the corner of a Rock for a week or two, du- ring which time its Mate brought Provifion to

it

Wejlern Iflands of Scotland. 6i

it daily, until it recover'd perfeQ:ly. The Na- \ tives add further, that one of thefe two Ravens having died fome time after, the furviving one abandon'd the Ifland for a few days, and then was feen to return with about ten or twelve more of its kind, and having chofen a Mate out of this number, all the reft went quite off, leav- ing thefe two in pofTeffion of their little King- dom. They do by a certain Sagacity difcover* to the Inhabitants any Carcafe, on the Shore or in the Fields, whereof I have feen feveral In- ftances : the Inhabitants pretend to know by their noife, whether it be Flefh, or Fifh, 1 told them, this was fuch a Nice|^ that I could fcarcely give it credit ; but. they anfwer'd me, that they came to the knowledg of it by Obfer- vation, and that they make their loudeft noife for Flefh. There is a narrow Channel between the Ifland of Heisker and one of the leffer Iflands, in which the Natives formerly kill'd many Seals, in this manner : They twifted together feveral fmall Ropes of Horfe-hair in form of a Net, contraded at one end like a Purfe ; and fo by opening and fhutting this Hair-Net, thefe Seals were catch'd in the narrow Channel. On the South fide of North-Vifi are the Iflands of lUeray^ which are acceflible at low Water ; each of them being three riiiles in compafs, and very fertile in Corn and Cattle.

O N the Weftern Coaft of this Ifland lies the Rock Eoufimi, about a quarter of a mile

in

6r ^Description uf the

in Circumference, and it is ftill famous for the yearly fifhing of Seals there, in the end of October. This Rock belongs to the Farmers of the next adjacent Lands : there is one who fur- nifheth a Boat, to whom there is a particular Ihare due on that account, befides his Propor- tion as Tenant. The Parifh-Minifter hath his choice of all the young Seals, and that which he takes is call'd by the Natives, Cullen-Moryy that is, the Virgin Marfs Seal. The Steward of the Illand hath one paid to him, his Officer hath another, and this by virtue of their Offi- ces. Thefe Farmers man their Boat with a competent nurriiber fit for the bufinefs, and they always imbark Vith a contrary Wind, for their fecurity againft being driven away by the Ocean, and likewife to prevent them from being difcover'd by the Seals, who are apt to fmell the Scent of them, and prefently run to Sea.

WHEN this Crew is quietly landed, they furround the PaiTes, and then the Signal for the general Attack is given from the Boat, and fo they beat them down with big Staves. The Seals at this Onfet make towards the Sea with all fpeed, and often force their PalTage over the necks of the floutefl AiTailants, who aim always at the Forehead of the Seals, giving many blows before they be kill'd ; and if they be not hit exactly on the front, they contrad a Lump on their Forehead, which makes them look very fierce ; and if they get hold of the Staff with

their

Weflern IJlands of Scotland. 6}

their Teeth, they carry it along to Sea wi(;h them. Thofe that are in the Boat fhoot at them as they run to Sea, but few are catch'd that way. The Natives told me, that feveral of the biggeft Seals lofe their Lives by endea- vouring to fave their young ones, whom they tumble before them towards the Sea. I was toldalfo, that ^20 Seals, young and old, have been kill'd at one time in this place. The rea- fon of attacking 'em in OMer^ is, becaufe in the beginning of this Month the Seals bring forth their Young on the Ocean fide ; but thefe on the Eaft fide, who are of the leiTer ftature, 3ring forth their Young in the middle of 'June,

THE Seals eat no Fifh till they firft take off the Skin : they hold the Head of the Fifh be- tween their Teeth, and pluck the Skin off each fide with their fharp-pointed Nails; this I ob- ferv'd feveral times. The Natives told me, that the Seals are regularly coupled, and refent an Encroachment on their Mates at an ex- jtraordinary rate : The Natives have obferv'd, that when a Male had invaded a Female, al- ready coupled to another, the injur'd Male, upon its Return to its Mate, would by a ftrange Sagacity find it out, and refent it againft the Aggreffor by a bloody Conflid, which gives a red Tinfture to the Sea in that part where they fight. This piece of Revenge has been often obferv'd by Seal-Hunters, and many others of

un-

6^ ^Description of the

unqueftioaable Integrity, whofe OccaGons ob- iig'd them to be much on this Coaft. I was affur'd by good hands, that the Se ils make their Add relies to each other by KilTes : this hath been obferv'd often by Men and Women, as finiing on the Coaft in a clear Day. The Fe- male puts away its Young from lucking, as foon as it is able to provide for it felf ; and this is not done without many fevere Blows.

THERE is a Hole in the Skin of the Fe- male, within which the Teats are fecured from being hurt, as it creeps along the Rocks and Stones ; for which caufe, Nature hath form'd the Point of the Tongue of the young one clo- ven, without which it could not fuck.

THE Natives fait the Seals with the Aflies of burnt Sea- ware, and fay they a re good Food : the Vulgar eat them commonly in the Spring- time with a long pointed Stick inftead of a Fork, to prevent the ftrong Smell which their hands would otherwife have for feveral hours after. The Flefh and Broth of frefh young Seals is by experience known to be peroral ; the Meat is aftringent, and ufed as an effe6lual Remedy againft the Diarrhea and Dyfente- ria : the Liver of a Seal being dry'd and pul- vcriz'd, and afterwards a little of it drunk With Milk, Jquaviu^ or red Wine, is alfo good againll Fluxes.

' SOME

' Weflern JJlands 0/ Scotland. 6f

S 0 M E of the Natives Wear a Girdle of the Seal-Skin about the middle, for removing the Sciatica, as thofe of the Shire o^ Aberdeen wear ^it to remove the Chin-cough. This four- . rooted Creature is reckon'd one of the fwifteft o ;n the Sea ; they fay hkewife, that it leaps in. v:oId Weather the height of a Pike above wa- er, and that the Skin of it is whice in Sum- ner, and darker in Winter ; and that tlieir jliair ftands on end with the Flood, and falls .gain at the Ebb. The Skin is by the Naci\^es tut in long pieces, and then made ufe of inftcad f Ropes to fix the Plougii to their HorfcSji vhen they till the Ground,

THE Seal, tho efteemM fit only for the uigar, is alfo eaten by Perfons of Diftin^lion, 10 under a different Name, to wit, Hamm: lis I have been aiTur'd of by good hands, and lus we fee that the generality of Men are as luch led by Fancy as Judgment in their Pa- tes, as well as in other things. The Popifli f ulgar, in the Illands Southward from this, eac hefe Seals in Le?n inlkad of Fifh. This occa- ion'd a Debate between a Proteftant Gentle- |ian and a Papift of my Acquaintance : the )rmer alledg'd that the other had trafngrefs'd le Rules of his Church, by eating Flefh in ,em : the latter anfwer'd, that he did not ; for, lys he, I have eat a Sea-Creature^ which only Ives and feeds upon Firti, The Proteftant re- E ply'd,

66 ^Description o/ the

plyM, that this Creature is amphibious, lie: creeps, eats, fleeps, and fo fpends much of it; time on Land, which no Fifh can do and live. It hath alfo another Faculty that no Fifli has that is, it breaks Wind backward fo loudly that one may hear it at a great diftance. Bu the Papift Aill maintain'd that he muft believ it to be Fifh, till fuch time as the Pope and hi Priefts decide the queftion.

ABOUT three Leagues and a half to th Weil, lie the fmall iQands calFd Hawsker-Rock. and Hawsker-Eggathy and H^wsker-Nimanmcl. id efi, MoAs-Rock, which hath an Altar in ii The firft call'd fo from the Ocean, as bein near to it ; for Haw or Thau in the antient Lar guage fignifies the Ocean : the more Southerl Rocks are fix or feven big ones nicked or inder ted, for Eggath fignifies fo much. The large; Ifland, which is Northward, is near half mile in Circumference, and it is covered wit long Grafs. Only fmall VeiTels can pafs b( tween this and the Southern Rocks, bein neareft to St.KJldA of all the Weil: Iflands both of 'em abound with Fowls as much s any liles of their extent in St, Kjlda. Th' Coulterneb, Guillemot, and Scarts, are moj numerous here ; the Seals likewife abound ver much in and about thefe Rocks.

THE Ifland of VaUy lies On the Weil, nea the. main Land of North-Viji-, it is about fou

mile

Weflern l/tands of Scotland. 6/

miles in Circumference, arable and a dry Tan- dy Soil, very fruitful in Corn and Grafs, Clo- ver and Dafy. It hath three Chappels ; one dedicated to St. Vlto^^ and another to the Vir- gin Mary. There are two CrofTes of Stone, each of them about 7 foot high, and a foot and a half broad.

THERE is a little Font on an Altar, being big Stone, round like a Cannon-Ball, and having in the upper end a little Vacuity capa- ble of two Spoonfuls of Water. Below the Chappels there is a flat thin Stone, call'd Erowmes Stone, upon which the antientlnha- ,bitants offer'd a Cow's Milk every Sunday; 3ut this Cuftom is now quite abolifh'd. Some ;|:hirty paces on this fide, is to be feen a little 5 [lone Houfe under gronnd ; it is very low and ' ong, having an Entry on the Sea-fide : I faw \n Entry in the middle of it, which was dif- ;over'd by the falling of the Stones and Earth.

ABOUT a League to the North-eafl: of ■faUj is the Ifland of Borera, about four miles ■\ p Circumference : the Mould 'm fome places is pndy, and in others black Earth ; it is very uitful in Cattle and Grafs. I faw a Mare ere, which I was told brought forth a Fole in ler fecond Year.

■I

I THERE is a Cow here that brought forth

(WO Female Calves at once, in all things fo verv

E 2 like

6^ ^ De SCRIPT lO N o/ t/je

like one another, that they could not be diftin- guifli'd by any outward Mark ; and had fuch a Syrhpathy, thst they were never feparate, ex- cept in time of fucking, and then they kept ftiil their own fide of their Danti, which was not obferv'd until a diftinguifhing Mark was put about one of their Necks by the Milk- maid. In the middle of this Ifland there*s a frefh-water Lake, well ftock'd with very big Eels, fome of them as long as Cod or Ling- Fifli. There is a Paflage under the ftony Ground, which is between the Sea and the Lake, thro which it's fuppos'd the Eels come ir with the Spring-Tides : one of the Inhabitant? caird AUck'Vcimch^ i. e. JM^nks-Sorty had the cu riofity to creep naked thro this PaiTage.

THIS Ifland affords the largeft and bef Dulfe for eating ; it requires lefs Butter thai any other of this fort, and has a mellowifl Talle.

THE Burial-place near the Houfes is call'( the Monks-Field, for all the Monks that die( in the iflands that lie Northward from Egg were bury'd in this little Plot : each Grave had a Stone at both ends, fome of which are 3, an( others 4 foot high. There are big Stones with; out the Burial-place even with the Ground ; fit veral of them have little Vacuities in them'a if made by Art : the Tradition is, that thei Vacuities were dug for receiving the Monl^ Knees, when they pray'd upon 'em.

THJ

Wejlem IJlvids of Scotland. 6p

THE Ifland Lwgay lies half a League 3outh on the fide of Borera : it is fingular in. refpe^l of all the Lands of Fifi, and the other Iflands that furround it, for they are all com- pos'd of Sand, and this on the contrary is alto- gether Mofs cover'd with Heath, affording five Peats in depth ; and is very ferviceable and ufeful, furnifhing the Ifland Borera, kc. with plenty of good Fuel. This Ifland was held as eonfecrated for feveral Ages, infomuch that the Natives would not then prefume to cut any Fuel in it.

THE Cattle produc'd here, are Horfes, Cows, Sheep and Hogs, generally of a low fta- ture. The Horfes are very ftrong, and fit for Pads, tho expos'd to the Rigour of the Weather all the Winter and Spring in the open Fields. Their Cows are alfo in the Fields all the Spring, and their Beef is fweet and tender as any can be : they live upon Sea-ware in the Winter and "Spring, and are fatned by it, nor are they fflaughter'd before they eat plentifully of it [in December. The Natives are accuftom'd to [fait their Beef in a Cow's Hide, which keeps it clofe from Air, and preferves it as well, if not petter, than Barrels, and tafi:es they fay beft: jwhen this way ufed. This Beef is tranfported to Glafgoiv, a City in the Wefl: of Scotland, and from thence (being put into Barrels there) ex- ported to the Iff dies in good condifian. The E 3 Hills

7© ^ DfiS CR IPTIO N o/* t/;e

Hills afford fome hundreds of Deer, who eat Sea-ware alfo in Winter and Spring-time.

THE Amphibia, produc'd here are Seals and Otters. There is no Fox or venomous Crea- ture in this Ifland. The great Eagles here faften their Tallons in the back of Fifh, and commonly of Salmon, which is often abova water and in the furface. The Natives, who in the Summer-time live on the Coaft, do fome» times rob the Eagle of its Prey after itS; landing.

HERE are Hawks, Eagles, Pheafants,^ Moor-Fowls, Tarmogan, P'over, Pigeons,; Crows, Swans, and all the ordinary Sea-Fowls in the Weft Iflands. The Eagles arc very de- ftruclive to the Fawns and Lambs, efpecially the black Eagle, which is of a leffer fize than the other. The Natives obferve, that it fixes its Tallons between the Deers Horns, and beats its Wings conftantly about its Eyes ; which puts the Deer to run continually till it fall intO: a Ditch, or over a Precipice, where it dies, and. fo becomes a Prey to this cunning Hunter,, There are at the fame time feveral other Eagles of this kind, which fly on both fides of the Deer ; which fright it extremely, and contri- bute much to its more fudden DeftruQion,

THE Forefter and llveral of the Natives affur'd me, that they had i^^n both forts of

■ Eagles

Wejlern Iflands of Scotland. 71

ifegles kill Deer in this manner. The Swans come hither in great numbers in the Month of October, with North-Eaft Winds, and live in the frefh Lakes, where they feed upon iTrout and Water-Plants till March, at which !time they fly away again with a South-Eaft Wind. When the Natives kill a Swan, it is icommonfor the Eaters of it to make a Nega- tive Vow (i. e. they fwear never to do fome- ithing that is- in it felf irppradicable) before Ithey tafte of the Fowl. i

I THE Bird Corn-Craker is ab6trt the bignefs bf a Pigeon, having a longer Neck, and being bf a brov/n Colour, but blacker in Harveft than !in Summer : the Natives fay it lives by the jVVater, and under the Ice in Winter and Spring.

! THE Colk is a Fowl fomewhat lefs than 2L |3oofe, hath Feathers of divers colours, a$ white, grey, green, and black, and is beautiful !:o the Eye : it hath a Tuft on the Crown of its jSead like that of a Peacock, and a Train lon- ';er than that of a Houfe-Cock. This Fowj ofeth its Feathers in time of hatching, and ives moftly in the remoteft Iflandsj as Heisker ind Ron a,

J! :THE G^n^in is a Fowl lefs than a Duck; it is reckon'd a true Prognofticator of fair Wea- ther ; for when it fings, fair and good Wea- :her ahyays follows, as the Natives commonly E 4 obferve :

7i j^ Deschiption of the

obferve : the Piper of St. KjUa plays the Not^ which it fings, and hath compofed a Tune of *em, wh.ch the Natives judg to be very fine ^ufick,

TH'E Rain-Goofe, bigger than a Duck, makes a doleful Noife before a great Pvain ; it builds its Neft always upon the brink of frefh- water Lakes, fo as it may reach the water.

THE Bomivochily fo calPd by the Natives, and by thp Seamen Brjhop and Carrara^ as big as a Goofe, having a white Spot on the Breaft, and the reft party-colour'd ; it feldom flies, but is exceeding quick in diving. The Minifter of North-Vtfi told me, that he kill'd one of them which weigh'd fixreen Pound and an Ounce: there is about an Inch-deep of Fat upon the Skin of it, which the Natives apply to the Hip"Bpne, and by experience find it a fuccefsful Remedy for removing the >icianca.

THE Bird Goylir^ about the bignefs of a Swallow, is obfervM never to land but in the -Month of January, at which time it is fuppos'd to hatch ; it dives with a violent fwiftnefs, "When any number of thefe Fowls are feenton gether, it's concluded to be an undoubted fign of an approaching Storm ; and when the Storm ceafes, they difappear under the water. The Seamen call them Malifigm, from Mali-effigies^ which they often find to be true.

THE

' Wejlern Iflands of Scotland. 75

THE Bird Sereachm-aittm is about the blg- nefs of a large Mull, but having a longer Body, land a bluilh Colour ; the Bill is of a Carnation Colour. This Bird flifieks moft hideoufly, and is obfervM to have a greater Affection for its Mate, than any Fowl whatfoever ; for when the Cock or Hen is kill'd, the furviving ione doth for eight or ten days afterward make a lamentable noife about the place.

THE Bird Faskidar, about the bignefs of a Sea-Maw of the middle fize, is obferv'd to fly wich greater fwiftnefs than any other Fowl in thofe parts, and purfues leffer Fowls, and forces them in their flight to let fall the Food which they have got, ^nd by its Nimblenefs catches it, before it touch the Ground,

^T H E Natives obferve that an extraordinary [eat without Rain, at the ufual time the Sea- owls lay their Eggs, hinders them from lay- iing any Eggs for about eight or ten days; iwhereas warm Weather accompany'd with !Rain difpofes them to lay much fooner.

THE Wild-Geefe are plentiful here, and very deftruftive to the Barley, notwithftanding the many methods ufed for driving them away both by Traps and Gun-fhot, There are fome Elocks of barren Fowls of all kinds, which gve difl:inguifh'd by their not joining with

th^

;r4 L/ D E S C R I P T I O N 0/ f/?e

the reft of their kind, aad they are feen com* monly upon the bare Rocks, without any Nefts.

THE Air is here moift and moderately cold, the Natives qualify it fometimes by drinking a Glafs of Vfqnebaugh. The Moif- ture of this Place is fuch, that a Loaf of Sugar is in danger to be diffoiv'd, if it be not prefer v'd by being near the Fire, or laying it among* Oatmeal, in fome cloie place. Iron here be- comes quickly rufty, and Iron which is 6n. the Sea-fide of a Houfe grows fooner rufty than that which is on the Land-fide.

THE greateft Snow falls here with the South-weft Winds, and feldom continues above three or four Days. The ordinary Snow falls with the North and North-weft Winds, and does not lie fo deep on the Ground near the Sea, as on the tops of Mountains.

THE Froft continues till the Spring is pretr ty far advanc'd, the Severity of which occafions great numbers of Trouts and Eels to die, but the Winter-Frofts have not this effed, for which the Inhabitants give this reafon, i'/^. That the Rains being more frequent in ohober^ do in their opinion carry the Juice and Quintef- fence of the Plants into the Lakes, whereby they think the Filh are nourilh'd during the Winter; and there being no fuch Nourifhment

in

Wejlem IJlands of Scotland. 7 y

in the Spring, in regard of the uninterrupted running of the Water, which carries the Juice with it to the Sea, it deprives the Fidi of this Nfourifhment, and confequently of Life. And uhey add further, that the Fifli have no accefs :o the Superficies of the Water, or to the Brink iDf it, where the Juice might be had. The Natives are the more confirmed in their Opi- liion, that the Fifhes in Lakes and Marfbcs are jbferv'd to out-live both Winter and Spring- Frofts. The Eaft-North-Eaft Winds always procure fair Weather here, as they do in all he North- Weft Iflands; and the Rains are nore frequent in this place in October and F<?- Wuary^ than at any other time of the Year.

FOUNTAIN- Water drunk in Winter, is kon'd by the Natives to be much more holefom than in the Spring ; for in the latter ,t caufeth the Diarrhea and Dyfenteria.

THE Difeafes that prevail here are Fevers, iarrhea and Dyfenteria, Stitch, Cough, Scia- ica, Megrim, the Small-Pox, which common- y comes once in 1 7 Years time. The ordinary [^ure for Fevers, is letting blood plentifully : [the Diarrhe* is cured by drinking Jqr/avit£, pad the ftronger the better. The Flefli and iLiver of Seals are ufed as above-mention'd, both for the Diarrhea and Dyfenteria. Milk wherein Hedick-Stone has been quenched, be- ing frequently drunk, is likewife a good Re- medy for the two Difeafes laft mentioned.

THE

y6 v// D E S C R I P T I O N 0/ ^/;^

THE Kernel of the black Nut found on the Shore, being beat to powder, and drunk in Milk or Aquavi:^^ is reckon'd a good Re- medy for the faid two Difeafes : Stitches are cured fometimes by letting blood.

THEIR common Cure for Coughs is Bro^ cha/j^ formerly mention'd. The Cafe of the Carrar^-Vosf/l^ with the Fat, being powder'd a little, and apply'd to the Hip-bone, is an ap- proved Remedy for the Sciatica. Since the great Change of the Seafons, which of late Years is become more piercing and cold, by which the Growth of the Corn, both in the Spring and Summer Seafons are retarded ; there are fome Difeafes difcover'd, which were not known here before, viz. a fpotted Fever,' , which is commonly cured by drinking a Glafs of Brandy or JquAvitx liberally when the Difeafe feizes them, and ufmg it till the Spots appear outwardly. This Fever was brought hither by a Stranger from the Ifland of Mull^ who infected thefe other Iflands. When the Fever is violent, the Spots appear the fecond Day, but commonly on the fourth Day, and then the Difeafe comes to a Crifis- the feventh Day : but if the Spots don't appear the fourth i Day, the Difeafe is reckon'd mortal ; yet it has ■ not prov'd fo here, tho it has carry'd off feveral in the other adjacent Southern lilands. Tlie Vulgar are accuftom'd to apply Flawubjavis

for

I Wejlern Iflands of Scotland. 77

ifor evacuating noxious Humours, fuch as caufe jthe Heach-ach, and Pains in the Arms or Legs ; land they,find great advantage by it. The way of ufmg it is thus : They take a quantity of it, bruifed fmall and put into a Pate/U, and ap- ply it fo to the Skin a little below the place affefted : in a Imall time it raifes a Blifter a- bout the bignefs of an Egg, which, when jroke, voids all the Matter that is in k , then the Skin fills, and fwells twice again, and as often voids this Matter. They ufe the Sea- plant Limrich to cure the Wound, and it proves effectual for this purpofe, and alfo for the Megrim and Burning.

THE Broth of a Lamb, in which the Plants Shunnifh and Alexander have been boil'd, is found by Experience to be good againft Con- fumftions. The green Sea-plant Linarich is by them apply'd to the Temples and Forehead to dry up Defluxions, and alfo for drawing up the Tonfels. Neil Mackdomid in the Ifland Heiskir is fubjeft to the falling of the Tonfels at every Change of the Moon, and they con- tinue only for the firft Quarter. This Infir- mity hath continu'd with him all his days, yet he is now 72 Years of Age.

"JOHN FAK,E who lives m Pabble in the Parifh of Kjlmoor^ alias St. Mary% is confl:antly

I troubled with a great Sneezing a day or two ; before Rain j and if the Sneezing be more than

5. f ufual,

ih

78 ^ D E S C R I P T lO N o/ tfe

nfual, the Rain is faid to be the greater : there-^ fore he is call'd the Rain-Almanack. He has had this Faculty thefe nine Years paft^

THERE is a Houfe in the Village call'd Ard'Nim-boothin in the Parifli of St. Marfs ; and the Houfe-Cock there never crows fromi the tenth of September till the middle of March, This was told me two Years ago, and fince confirm'd to me by the Natives, and the pre- fent Minifter of the Parifb.

THE Inhabitants of this Ifland are gene- rally well-proportion'd, of an ordinary Stature and a good Complexion ; healthful, and fome of 'em come to a great Age : feveral of my Acquaintance arriv'd at the Age of 90, and upwards ; '^ohn Mackdondd of Griminis was of this number, and died lately in the 93d Year of his Age. Dondd Roy^ who liv'd in the Ifle of Sand^ and died lately in the hundredth Year of his Age, was able to travel and ma- nage his Affairs till about two Years before his Death. They are a very charitable and hofpi- table People, as is a'ny where to be found* There was never an Inn here till of late, and now there is but one, which is not at all fre- quented for eating, but only for drinking ; for the Natives by their Hofpitality render this new-invented Houfe in a manner ufelefs. The great Produce of Barley draws many Strangers to this Ifland, with a defign to procure as much

of

Wejlern Ijlands of Scotland, 75? Qf this Grain as they can ; which they get of the Inhabitants gratis^ only for asking, as they do Horfes, Cows, Sheep, Wool, &c, I was ;told fome months before my lall Arrival there that there had been ten Men in that place at bne time to ask Corn gratis, and every one of thefe had fome one, fome two, and others three Attendants ; and during their abode there, were all entertain'd gratis^ no one re- turning empty.

T H I S is a great, yet voluntary Tax, which has continuM for many Ages ; but the late ge- neral Scarcity has given them an occafion to alter this Cuftom, by making Afts againft Li- 3erality, except to poor Natives and Objeds )f Charity.

THE Natives are much addi£l:ed to riding; :he Plainnefs of the Country difpofing both Men and Horfes to it. They obferve an an- liverfary Cavalcade on iWchaeimaa-Dayy and :hen all Ranks of both Sexes appear on horfe- Ipack. The place for this Rendezvous is a large [piece of firm fandy Ground on the Sea-fhorc, land there they have Horfe-racing for fmall Prizes, for which they contend eagerly. There is an antient Cuftom, by which it is lawful for l^ny of the Inhabitants to fteal his Neighbour's Horfe the night before the Race, and ride him all next day, provided he deliver him fafe and found to the Owner after the Race. The ' manner

8o ^Description of the

manner of running is by a few young Men, who ufe neither Saddles nor Bridies, except two fmall Ropes made of Bent inftead of a Bridle, nor any fort of Spurs, but their bare Heels : and when they begin the Race, they throw thefe Ropes on their Horfes flecks, and drive 'em on vigoroufly with a piece of long Sea- ware in each hand, inftead of a Whip ; and this isdry'din the Sun feveral Months before for that purpofe. This is a happy opportunity for the Vulgar, who have few occafions for meet- ing, except on Sundays : the Men have their; Sweet-hearts behind them on horfe-back, and give and receive mutual Prefents ; the Men prefent the Women with Knives and Purfes, the Women prefent the Men with a pair of fine Garters of divers Colours, they give them likewife a quantity of wild Carrots. This Ifle belongs in Property to Sir Dondd MackdonaU, o^ Sleat : he and all the Inhabitants are Pro-, teftants, one only excepted ; they obferve Chriflmas, Good-Friday^ and St. Michael's Day.

rk

Wejiern J/lands of Scotland. 8i

Tf^e IJIe Benbecula, its Difiance, Len^hy !Bay, Mold, Gra'in^ Fip?, Cattle, Frejh Lakes, Forts, a Stone yank, Nunnery^ proprietor.

THE Ifland of BenbecuU lies direftly tO the South of North-Vift, from which it is two miles diltant ; the Ground being alt plain and fandy between them, having two ttle Rivers or Channels no higher than one's knee at a Tide of Ebb : this PafTage is over- Elow'd by the Sea every Tide of Flood, nor is c navigable except by Boats. There are fe- (ireral fmall Ifland s on the Eaft-fide of this thannel. This Ifland is three Miles in length Tom South to North, and three from Eafl: to ^eft, and ten Miles in compafs. The Eafl- ide is coverM with Heath ; it hath a Bay call'd '-^iskivay, in which fmall VelTels do fometimes larbour, and now and then Herrings are aken in it.

THE Mountain BenbecuU, from which the fle hath its Name, lies in the middle of it i jhe Eaftern part of this Ifland is all arable, Wt the Soil fandy, the Mould is the fame vith that of North-Fift, and affords the fame -orn, Fifti, Cattle, Amphibia, &c. There is 10 venomous Creature here. It hath feveral F frefh-

it ^Description 0/ the

frefh-water Lakes well ftock'd with Fifli and Fowl. There are fome Ruins of old Forts to be feen in the fmall Iflands, in the Lakes, and; on the Plain.

THERE are alfo fome fmall Chappels here, one of them at Bael-nm-KJlUch^ id efl^ Nuns-Town, for there were Nunneries here in time of Popery. The Natives have lately difcoverM a Stone Vault on the Eaft-fide the Town, in which there are abundance of fmal! Bones, which have occafion'd many uncertair Conjedures ; fome faid they were the Bonei of Birds, others judg'd them rather to be tin Bones of Pigmies. The Proprietor of th< Town enquiring Sir Normund Mackleod's Opi nion concerning them, he told him that th matter was plain as he fuppos'd, and tha they muft be the Bones of Infants born bi the Nuns there. This was very difagreeabl to the Roman Catholick Inhabitants, wh laugh'd it over. But in the mean time th Natives out of Zeal took care to fliut up th Vault, that no accefs can be had to it fince fo that it would feem they believe what Si Normand faid, or elfe fear'd that it might gaii credit by fuch as afterward had occafion t fee them. This liland belongs properly t Ra^al Mxckdondd of BenhecuU^ who, with a the Inhabitants, are Roman Catholicks ; an I remember I have feen an old Lay Capuchi here, call'd in the Language Brahtr-bocht, tha

Weflern Jflands of Scotland. 8 1

is, Voor Brother ; which is literally true, for he anfwers this Charafter, having nothing but what is given him : He holds himfelf fully fatisfy'd with Food and Rayment, and lives in as great Simplicity as any of his Order ; his Diet is very mean, and he drinks only fair Water : his Habit is no lefs mortifying than ^hat of his Brethren elfewhere ; he wears a Ihort Coat, which comes no further than his Middle, with narrow Sleeves like a Waftcoac ; he wears a Plad above it girt about the Mid- dle, which reaches to his Knee : the Plad is faften'd on his Bread with a wooden Pin, his Neck bare, and his Feet often fo too : he wears a Hat for Ornament, andthe String about it is a Bit of Fifher's Line made of Horfe-hair. This Plad' he wears inftead of a Gown worn by thofe of his Order in other Countries. I told him he wanted the flaxen Girdle thac Men of his Order ufually wear : he anfwer'd me, that he wore a Leather one, which was the fame thing. Upon the matter, if he is fpoke to when at Meat, he anfwers again ; which is contrary to the Cuftom of his Order. This poor Man frequently diverts himfelf with [Angling of Trouts ; he lies upon Straw, and had no Bell (as others have) to call him to pis Devotion, but only his Confcience, as he told me.

1

THE fpeckled Salmons, defcribM in North- Vifi^ are very plentiful on the Weft fide of this ifland. F 2 THE

84 ^ Descriptiok o/ tfce

THE Ifland of South^Vtfi lies direaiy two Miles to the South of BenbecuU, being in length one and twenty Miles, and three in breadth, and in fome places four. The Eaft- fide is mountainous on the Coaft, and heathy for the moft part : the Weft fide is plain ara- ble Ground, the Soil is generally fandy, yield- ing a good Produce of Barley, Oats, and Rye, in proportion to that oF iXorth-Fifiy and has the fame fort of Cattle. Both Eaft and Weft fides of this Ifland abound in freOi-water Lakes, which afford Trouts and Eels, befides variety of Land and Sea-Fowls. The arable Land is much damnify 'd by the overflowing of thefe Lakes in divers places, which they have not hitherto been able to drain, tho the thing be prafticable. Several Lakes have old Forts built upon the fmall Iflands in the middle of them. About four Miles on the South-Eaft end of this Ifland, is Loch-Ejfwrd ; it reaches feveral Miles Weftward, having a narrow Entry, which makes a violent Current, and within this Entry there's a Rock, upon which there was ftaved to pieces a Frigot of CromwelPs^ ■which he fent there to fubdue the JSIatives. Ambergreafe hath been found by feveral of the Inhabitants on the Weft Coaft of this Ifland, and they fold it at Glajgoiv at a very low rate, not knowing Hiq value of it at firft; but when they knew it, they rais'd the Price to the other Extreme. Upon a Thaw after a long Froft,

the

Weflern Iflands of Scotland, 85

the South-Eaft Winds caft many dead Fifhes on the fhore. The Inhabitants are generally of the fame Nature and Complexion \v\t\\ thofe of the next adjacent Northern lilands ; they wear the fame Habit, and ufe the fame Diet. One of the Natives is very famous for his great Age, being, as it's faid, a hundre4 and thirty Years old, and retains his Appetite and Underftanding ; he can walk abroad, and did labour with his hands as ufually, till with- in thefe three Years, and for any thing I know is yet living.

THERE are feveral big Kairnes of Stone on the Eaft-fide this lUand, and the Vulgar retain the antient Cuftom of making a Reli-

fious Tour round them on Sundays and Holi- ays.

THERE is a Valley between two Moun- tains on the Eaft-fide, call'd Glenjlytey which affords good Pafturage. The Natives who farm it, come thither with their Cattle in the Summer-time, and are polfeifed with a firm Belief that this Valley is haunted by Spirits, who by the Inhabitants are call'd the great Men ; and that whatfoever Man or Woman ienters the Valley, without making firft an en- jtire Refignation of themfelves to the Conduct of the great Men, will infallibly grow mad. The words by which he or fhe gives up him- felf to thefe Mens Conduct, are comprehen- F 3 dfd

%6 ^Description of th

ded in three Sentences, wherein the Glen is twice named ; to which they add, that it is in- habited by thefe great Men, and that fuch as enter depend on their ProteQ:ion. I told the Katives, that this was a piece of filly Credu- lity^ as ever was imposM upon the moft igno- rant Ages, and that their imaginary Protetlors deferv'd no fuch Invocation. They anfwer'd, That there had happen'd a late Inllance of a Woman who went into that Glen without re- figning her felf to the ConduS: of thefc IVlen, and immediately after fhe became mad ; which coniirm'd them in their unreafonable Fdncy.

THE People refiding here in Summer, fay they fometimes hear a loud noife in the Air, like Men fpeaking. I enquired if their Priefk ' had preach'd or argu'd againfl: this fuperfti- ; tious Cuftom ? They told me, he knew better] things, and would not be guilty of diiluading-^ Men from doing their Duty, which they doubted not he judg'd this to be ; and that they refolv'd to perfiif in the Belief of it, until they found better Motives to the contrary, than have been flaew'd them hitherto. The Proteftant Minifter hath often endeavour'd to undeceive them, but in vain, becaufe of an implicit Faith they have in their Prieft : and when the Topicks of Perfuafion, tho never fp urgent, come from one they believe to be 4 \ Heretickj there is little hope of fuccefs-

THE

f Wejlem Jflands of Scotland. 87

THE Ifland Erifca^ about a Mile in length, and three in circumference, is partly heathy, and partly arable, and yields a good Produce. The inner-fide hath a wide Anchorage, there is excellent Cod and Ling in it ; the Natives begin to manage it better, but not o that ad- vantage it is capable of. The fmall Ifland near it was overgrown with Heath, and about three Years ago the Ground threw up all that Heath from the very root, fo that there is not now one Shrub of it in all this Ifland. Such as have occafion to travel by Land between South-Vtft and Benbecula^ or BenbecuU and North- Vift^ had need of a Guide to direct them, and to obferve the Tide when low, and alfo for crofling the Channel at the right Fords, elfe they cannot pafs without danger,

THERE are fome Houfes under-ground in this Ifland, and they are in all points like thofe defcrib'd in North-Vifi ; one of them is in the South Ferry-Town, oppoflte to Barraj. The Cattle produced here, are like thofe of North-Vifr^ and there are above three hundred Deer in this Ifland : it was believ'd generally, that no venomous Creature was here, yet of late fome little Vipers have been feen m the South end of the Ifland.

THE Natives fpeak the Jrifh Tongue more

perfedly here, than in moll of the other

F 4 Iflands;

88 ^Description of the

Iflands ; partly becaufe of the Remotenefs, and thefmall number of thofe that (peak Englijbj and partly becaufe fome of 'etn are Scholars, and vers'd in the Irijh Language. They wear the fame Habit with the neighbouring Iflan- 1 ders. i

THE more antient People continue to^ wear the old Drefs, efpecially Women : they are a hofpitable well-meaning People, but the Misfortune of their Education difpofes them to Uncharitablenefs, and rigid Thoughts of their Proteftant Neighbours ; tho at the fame time they find it convenient to make Alliances with the'm. The Churches here are St, Co- lumbd and St. Mary\ in Hogh-more^ the moft centrical place in the Ifland ; St. ^eremfs Chap- pels, St. Peter\ St. Banno-ny St. Michael^ St. Donnan,

THERE is a Stone fet up near a Mile to the South of Columbui^s Church, about 8 foot high, and 2 foot broad : it is calPd by the Na- tives the Bomng'Stone ; for when the Inhabi- tants had the firft fight of the Church, they fet up this Stone, and there bow'd and faid the Lord's Prayer. There was a Buckle of Gold found in Emort Ground fome twenty years ago, which was about the value of feven Guineas.

A S I came from South-Vtfi, I perceiv'd about fmy Horfemen ridiag along the Sands, dired-

Wejlern IJlands of Scotland.. 89

ling their Courfe for the Eaft-Sea ; and being iDCtween me and the Sun, they made a great igure on the plain Sands : We difcover'd them 0 be Natives of South-Vifi^ for they alighted rom their Horfes, and went to gather Cockles n the Sands, which are exceeding plentiful here. This Ifland is the Property of Mart Vlackdomld of Moydarf, Head of the Tribe of ^ackdomldf call'd CUnrondds ; one of the chief 'amilies defcended of Mackdomld, who was .ord and King of the Iflands. He and all the nhabitants are Papifts, except fixty, who are 'roteftants : the Papifts obferve all the Feili- als of their Church, they have a general Ca- alcade on All-Saints Day, and then they bake MichaePs Cake at night, and the Family and trangers eat it at Supper.

FERGVS BEJTON huh thQ following ntient Injfj Manufcripts in the Irifi Charader ; 0 wit, Avicenna^ Averroes^ Joannes de VigOy \ernardu^ Gordonus, and feveral Volumes of Jjpocrales*

THE Ifland of Banay lies about two |Leagues and a half to the South- Weft of the jfland SoHth-Vijt ; it is five Miles in length, and jhree in breadth, being in all refpecls like the jflands lying directly North from it. The Eaft Jide is rocky, and the Weft arable Ground, .nd yields a good Produce of the fame Grain [hat both Vijts do : they ufe likewife the fame ' ' way

pO "^ D E S C K I P T I O N 0/ fk

way for enriching their Land with Sea-ware There is plenty of Cod and Ling got on the E^fl: and South-fides of this Ifland : fevera^ fmall Ships from Orkney come hither in Sura- itjer, and afterward return loaden with Coc^ and Ling.

THERE is a fafe Harbour on the North- Eaft tide of Barray^ where there is great plent] of Fifh.

THE Rivers on the Fafi: fide afford Sal mons, fome of which are fpeckled like thef mention'd in North-Vifi^ but they are more fuc cefsful here in catching them. The Native go with th^ree feveral Herring-Nets, and la them crofs-ways in the River where the Sa] mon are moft numerous, and betwixt ther: and the Sea. 1 hefe Salmon at the fight c, fh'dDw of the People make towards the See ani '^eeling the Net from the Surface to th GroUiji, lump over the firfi:, then the fecono but being weakned, cannot get over the thin Net, and fo are catch'd. They delight t leap ibove water, and fwim on the Surfac^j or e of the Natives told me, that he kill'd Sahi.oa with a Gun, as jumping above w»: ter.

TREY informed me alfo, that many Barrei of htm '\\i^\\t be taken in the River abovii m n-i; ju d, if there was any encouragemer?

fc^

Weflern IJlands of Scotland. p i

;|)r curing and tranfportlng them. There are Weral old Forts to be feen here, in form like jiofe in the other Iflands. In the South end |f this Ifland there is an Orchard, which pro- luces Trees, but few of them bear Fruit, in :^gard of their Nearnefs to the Sea. All forts if Roots and Plants grow plentifully in it : :)me years ago Tobacco did grow here, being if all Plants the moft grateful to the Natives, )r the Iflanders love it mightily.

THE little Ifland Kjfmul lies about a quar- iv of a mile from the South of this Ifle ; it is le Seat of Mackneil of Barray, there is a ftone Yall round it two ftories high, reaching the £a, and within the Wall there is an old Tower nd an Hall, with other Houfes about it. 'here is a little Magazine in the Tower, to ^hich no Stranger has accefs. I faw the Of- cer caird the Cockmm^ and an old Cock he is : /hen I bid him ferry me over the Water to the hand, he told me that he was but an inferior Ifficer, his bufinefs being to attend in the power ; but if (fays he) the Conftable, who lien flood on the Wall, will give you accefs, i'll ferry you over. I defir'd him to procure he the Conftable's Permiflion, and I would jeward him ; but having waited {bme hours JDr the Conftable's Anfwer, and not receiving by, I was obliged to return without feeing this amous Fort. Macknetl and his Lady being Ibfent, was the cairfe of this difficulty, and of

my

pi ^Description of the

my not feeing the Place. I was told fon

weeks after, that the Conftable was very appr

henfive of fome Defign I might have in viewir

the Fort, and thereby toexpofe it to the Co.

queft of a foreign Power ; of which I fuppos

there was no great caufe of fear. The N;

tives told me there is a Well in the Villa^

Ta^gfti/I, the Water of which being boiPi

grows thick like Puddle. There is anoth

Well not far from Tangfiilly which the Inhab

tants fay in a fertile Year throws up mar

Grains of Barley in 'July and Augtifl. An

they fay that the Well of Kilhur throws t

Embrio's of Cockles, but I could not difcer

any in the Rivulet, the Air being at that tin:

foggy. The Church in this Ifland is call'

Kjlbarr, i. e. St. Bdrrh Church. There is

little Chappel by it, in which Mackmtly an

thofe defcended of his Family, are ufually ii

terred. The Natives have St. Barr^s woode

Image ftanding on the Altar, cover'd wit

Linen in form of a Shirt : all their greateft Affi

verations are by this Saint. I came very earl

in the Morning with an intention to fee thi'

Image, but was difappointed ; for the Native

prevented me, by carrying it away, left

might take occafion to ridicule their Superfti

tion, as fome Proteftants have done formerly

and when I was gone, it was again expos'd oj

the Altar. They have feveral Traditions con

cerning this great Saint. There is a Chappe

(about half a mile on the South fide of th

Hil

Weflem IJlands of Scotland. p> \ii\\ near St. Barr\ Church) where I had oc* iafion to get an account of a Tradition con- £rning this Saint, which was thus ; The Inha- jftmts having began to build the Church, which hey dedicated to him^ they laid this Wooden mage within it, but it was inviftbly tranfported as they fay) to the Place where the Church ony fiandsy and found there every morning-, liis miraculous Conveyance is the Reafon pey give for defifting to work where they .rft began. I told my Informer that this ex- bordinary Motive was fu/Bcient to deter- |iine the Cafe, if true, but ask'd his Pardon Id dilTent from him, for I had not Faith cough to believe this Miracle ; at which he ps furprizM, telling me in the mean time, ,hat this Tradition hath been faithfully con- i|ey'd by the Priefts and Natives fuccelTively p this day. The Southern Iflands are, (i.) Mul- W]?;, about a Mile in Circumference; it is Ugh in the middle, cover'd over with Heath nd Grafs, and is the only Foreft here for paintaining the Deer, being commonly a« pout feventy or eighty in number. (2.) The jfland Sandreray lies Southerly of Barray, from ivhich it is feparated by a narrow Chan- |iel, and is three Miles in Circumference, ijaving a Mountain in the middle ; it is de- ^ign'd for Pafturage and Cultivation. On :he South fide there is an Harbour conve- iient for fmall VefTels, that come yearly peretofifhfor Cod and Ling, which abound

on

94 ^ D E S C R I P T I O N o/ ^/;e

on the Coaft of this Ifland. (3.) The IHar Sa/fdreray, two Miles in Circumference, fruitful in Corn and Grafs, and feparattjj by a narrow Channel from Vatterjay. (4.) 1 the South of thefe lies the Ifland Berner about two Miles in Circumference ; it e: eels other IQands of the fame Extent f( Cultivation and Fifhing. The Natives n ver go a fiQiing while NUcknetl or his Stev ard is in the Ifland, left feeing their pleni of Fifli, perhaps they might take occafion 1 raife their Rents. There is an old Fort this Ifland, having a Vacuity round t[ Walls, divided in little Apartments. Tl Natives endure a great Fatigue in manurin their Ground with Sea-ware, which they ca: ry in Ropes upon their Backs over high Rock They likewife faften a Cow to a Stake, an fpread a quantity of Sand on the Grounc upon which the Cow's Dung falls, and th they mingle together, and lay it on the ars ble Land. They take great Numbers Sea-Fowls from the adjacent Rocks, and fa) them with the Aflies of burnt Sea-ware i Cows Hides, which pr#ferves them from Pu trefadion.

THERE is a fort of Stone in this Ifland with which the Natives frequently rub th^ Breafts by way of prevention, and fay k i a good Prefervative for Health. This is al the Medicine they ufe ; Providence is very fa

vourabli

Weflern IJlands of Scotland. 95

(durable to them, in granting them a good Itate of Health, fince they have no Phyfician mong them. ,

THE Inhabitants are very hofpitable, indrthave a Cuftom, that when any Stran- ers from the Northern Iflands reforc thither, he Natives, immediately after their Land- ng, oblige them to eat, even tho they hould have liberally eat and drunk but aa lour before their Landing there. And this Vleal they call Bieyta^v ; i. e. Ocean Meat ; or they prefume that the fharp Air of the )cean, which indeed furrounds them, muft leeds give them a good Appetite. And what- :ver Number of Strangers come there, or f whatfoever Quality or Sex, they are re- gularly lodg'd according to antient Cuftom, hat is, one only in a Family ; by which [Cuftom a Man cannot lodg with his own ^Vife, while in this Ifland. Mr. Johfi Camp- ell, the prefent Minifter of Harries, told me, hat his Father being then Parfon of Harries^ nd Minifter of Bar ray (for the Natives at that :ime were Proteftants) carry 'd his Wife along |*vith him, and refided in this Ifland for fome [cime, and they difpos'd of him, his Wife and Servants in manner above-mention'd : and fup- pofe Mackneil of Barraj and his Lady fhould go thither, he would be oblig'd to comply with [this antient Cuftom.

! THERE

(^6 ^DescKiption of the

THERE is a large Root grows among th Rocks of this Ifland lately difcover'd, the Na tives call it Curran-Petrisy of a whitilh Coloui and upwards of two foot in length, where th Ground is deep, and in Shape and Size like ; large Carrot ; where the Ground is not fi deep, it grows much thicker, but fhorter : th top of it is like that of a Carrot.

THE Rock Unmull^ about half a Mile ii Circumference, is indifferently high, and al moft inacceffible, except in one Place, and tha is by climbing, which is very diiBcult. Thi Rock abounds with Sea-Fowls that build am hatch here in Summer ; fuch as the Guillemot. Cotdttr-neb,' P/iffin^ Sec The chief Climbei is commonly calFd Gingichy and this Nam« imports a big Man having Strength and Cou rage proportionable. When they approach th< Rock with the Boat, Mr. Gingtch jumps out firft upon a Stone on the Rock-fide, and then by the a (Ti (lance of a Rope of Horfe-hair, he draws his Fellows out of the Boat upon thi; high Rock, and draws the reft up after him with the Rope, till they all arrive at the Top, where they purchafe a confiderable Q^uantit) of Fowls and Eggs. Upon their return to th{ Boat, this Gingich runs a great hazard, b) jumping firft into the Boat again, where the; violent Sea continually rages ; having but 2 few Fowls more than his Fellows, befides

a

Weft em Iftands of Scotland. ^7

a greater Efteem to compenfate his Courage- When a Tenant's Wife in this or the adjacent Iflands dies, he then addrelTes himfelf to Mackneil of Barray, reprefenting his Lof^^^ and ^ the fame time defires that he would be pleas'd to recommend a Wife to him, with- out which he cannot manage his i^ffairs, nor jeget Followers to Mack/ieU, which would )rove a publick Lofs to him. Upon this Re- )refentation, Mackneil finds out a futable Match or him ; and the Woman's Name being told lim, immediately he goes to her, carrying with lim a Bottle of ftrong Waters for their Bnter- ainment at Marriage^ which is then confum- aated.

WHEN a Tenant dies, the Widow ad- reffeth her felf to Mackneil in the fame man- ner, who likewife provides her with a Huf- and, and they are marry'd without any fur- ler Courtfhip. There is in this Ifland an Jtar dedicated to St. Chriflo(/her^ at which the Jatives perform their Devotion. There is a one fet up here, about feven foot high ; and hen the Inhabitants come near it, they take religious Turn round it.

I F a Tenant chance to lofe his Milk-Cows the Severity of the Seafon, or any other isfortune ; in this Cafe Macknetl of Barraj fup- lies him with the like Number that he lolf.

G WHEN

98 >Desckiption of the

WHEN any of thefe Tenants are fo far advanc'd in Years that they are uncapable to till the Ground, Mack^etl tsikcs fuch old Men into his own Family, and maintains them all their Life after. The Natives obferve, that if fix Sheep are put a grazing in the little Ifland Pd- hay, five of them ftill appear fat, but the fixtl a poor Skeleton; but any Number in thi: Ifland not exceeding five are always very fet There is a little Ifland not far from this, call'c Micklay, of the fame Extent as Pabhay^znd hatl the fame way of feeding of Sheep. Thefe lit. tie Iflands afford excellent Hawks.

THE Ifles above-mention'd, lying near t( the South of Barray, are commonly calPd tb Bifhop^s Ifles, becaufe they are held of the Bl fhop. Some Ifles lie on the £^/ and North o\ Barrayy as Fiaray, Me/Ii/ay, Buya Major and Mi 77or, Linguy, Fuda ; they afford Pafturage, an( are commodious for Fifhing ; and the latter ' ing about two Miles in Circumference, is fen tile in Corn and Grafs. There is a good aj choring Place next to the Ifle on the North-Em Side.

T H E Steward of the Lejfer and Southern Iflands is reckoned a Great Man here, in r« gard of the Perquifites due to him ; fuch as .j particular fliare of all the Lands, Corn, ButJ rer, Cheefe, Fifli, c/r. which thefe Iflands pro}

duce

Weftern IJlahds of Scotland. ^p

iiiice : the Meafure of Barley paid him by each Family yearly, isanOmer, as they call it, con- jtaining about two Pecks.

! THERE is an inferior Officer, wlio alfo ihath a right to a fhare of all the farne Proclu6ls. ;Next to thefe come in courfe thofe of the lloweft Pofts, fuch as the Cockman and Porter^ leach of whom hath his refpe£live Due, which is pundually paid.

' MACKNEIL of Barray and all his Fol- io wers are Roman Catholicks, one only ex- cepted, ^iz. Murdoch Mackneil ; and it: may perhaps be thought no fmall Virtue in him to 'idhere to the Proteftant Communion^ confider- 'rig the E)ifadvantages he labours under by the ■A^ant of his Chief's Favour, which is much lef- en'd, fot being a Heretick, as they call him. illl the Inhabitants obferve the Anniverfaty of iJt. Barry being the 27th o^ September ; it isper- brm'd riding on Horfeback, and the Solemni- !y is concluded by three T^urns round St. Burr's Church. This brings intd my Mind a Story V^hich was told me concerning a foreign Prierf, ind the Entertainment he met with after his Arrival there fome Years ago, als follows : This Prieft happen'd to land here upon the very Day, and at the particular Hour of this So- ^mnity, which was the more acceptable to the ^habitants, who then defir'd him to preach a l^ommemoration Sermon to the Honour of G 2 their

vpo ^Description of the

their Patron St. Ban, according totheantient Cuftom of the Place. At this the Prieft was furpriz'd, he never havin^ heard of St. Barr be- fore that Day ; and theretore knowing nothing of his Virtues, could fay nothing concerning him : but told them, that if. a Sermon to the Honour of St. Paul or St. Peter could pleafe them, they might have it inftantly. This An- fwer of his was fo difagreeable to them, that they plainly told him he could be no true Prieft, if he had not heard of St. Barr, for the Pope himfelf had heard of him ; but this would not perfuade the Prieft, fo that they parted much diffatisfy'd with one another. They have like- wife a general Cavalcade on St. MichaePs Day in KjWar Village, and do then alfo take a Turn round their Church. Every Family, as foon as the Solemnity is ended, is accuftom'd to bake St. Michaefs Cake, as above defcrib'd •, and all Strangers, together with thofe of the Fa- mily, muft eat the Bread that Night.

THIS Ifland,and the ad jacent leiTer Iflands,. belong in property to Mackneil, being the thirtyi fourth of that Name by Lineal Defcent that has potlcis'd this Ifland, if the prefent G^»f4/o^^rjF may be credited. He holds his Lands in Vaf- falage of Sir Donald Macdondd of SUtCy t^ whom he pays 40/. fer ann. and a Hawk, Jii required, and is oblig'd to furniih him a cer-i tain Number of Men upon extraordinary Oc- cafioas.

IVeftem Iflands of Scotland. i o i

l^hz Jntient and Modern Cuftoms of the Inhii-^ Mtants of the Weflem JJlands 0/ Scotland.

EVERY Heir, or young Chieftain of a Tribe, was oblig'd in Honour to give a publick Specimen of his Valour, before he was ownM and declared Governor or Leader of his People, who obey'd and follow'd him upon all Occafions.

THIS Chieftain was ufually attended with a Retinue of young Men of Quality, who had not beforehand given any Proof of their Valout*,

land were ambitious of fuch an Opportunity to

Ifignalize themfelves.

IT was ufual for the Captain to lead theiti, jto make a defperate Incurfion upon fome Neigh- ibour or other that they were in Feud with ; and jthey were ob'.ig'd to bring by open force the jCattel they found in the Lands they attack'd, tor to die in the Attempt.

A F T E R the Performarice of this Atchieve- Iraent, the young Chieftain was ever after re- iputed valiant and worthy of Government, and fuch as were of his Retinue acquired the like Reputation. This Cuftom being reciprocally us'd among them, was not reputed Robbe- G J ry;

loz ^Desckiption of the

ry, for the Damage which one Tribe fuftain'd by this EfTay of the Chieftain of another, was repair'd when their Chieftain came in his turn to make his Specimen : but I have not heard an Inftance of this Praftice for thefe fix- ty Years paft.

THE Formalities obferv'd at the Entrance i of thefe Chieftains upon the Government of ' liheir Clans, were as follow : f

A HEAP of Stones was ere8:ed in form c pf a Pyramid, on the top of which the young 1 Cbieftajn was plac'd, his Friends and Followers c ftanding in a Circle round about him, his Ele- t v^tion fignifying his Authority over them, and < their ftanding below their Subjedion to him. i One of his principal Friends deliver'd into hj^ Hands the Sword wore by his Father, and t:here was a white Roc) deliver'd to hini like- ( lyife at the fame time. 1

IMME PIATELY after the Chief Druid : (or Orator) ftood clofe to the Pyramid, and 1 prqnounc'd a Rhetorical Panegyrick, fetting torth the antient Pedegree, Valour, and Li- jDerajity of the Family, as Incentives tq the- young Chieftain, and fit for his imitJ^-

IT w^s their Cuftom, when any Chieftaiq

jcnarch'd upon a military Expedition, to dra\y

/ ' fqri^e

Wejlern JJlands of Scotland. i o ;

fome Blood from the firfl: Animal that chanc'd to meet them upon the Enemy's Ground, and thereafter to fprinkle fome of it upon their Colours. This they reckon'd as a good Omea of future Succefs.

THEY had their fix'd Officers, who were ready to attend them upon all Occafions, whe- ther Military or Civil. Some Families conti- nue them from Father to Son, particularly Sir Donald MacdonaU has his principal Stan- dard-Bearer and Quarter-mafter. The latter has a right to all the Hides of Cows kill'd up- on any of the Occafions mentioned above ; and this I have feen exa^led punctually, tho the Officer had no Charter for the fame, but only Cuftom.

' THEY had a conflant Centinel on the top of their Houfes calPd Gockmin, or, in the Eng- lifh Tongue, Cockman \ who was oblig'd to watchDay and Night, and at the approach of any body, to ask, Who comes there ^ This Of- ficer is continu'd in Barmy ftill, and has the Per- quifites due to his Place paid him duly at two Terms in the Year.

THERE \vas a competent number of young Gentlemen cairdLyc/;^/4f/i, ov Guard de Corps, who always attended the Chieftain at Home and Abroad. They were well train'd in managing the Sword and Target, in Wreft- ' G 4 iing,

104 ^Description of the

ling. Swimming, Jumping, Dancing, Shoot- ing with Bows and Arrows, and were ftout Seamen.

EVERY Chieftain had a bold Armour- Bearer, whofe Bufinefs was always to attend the Perfon of his Mafter night and day to prevent any Surprize, and this Man was call'd GtillogUch ; he had Hkewife a double Portion of Meat aflign'd him at every Meal. The Mea- fure of Meat ufually given him, is call'd to this day Bteyfr, that is, a Man's Portion; mtaiiing thereby an extraordinary Man, whofe Strength and Courage diftinguilh'd him from the common fort.

BEFORE they engag'd the Enemy in Bat- tle, the Chief Druid haranguM the Army to excite their Courage. He was plac'd on an Eminence, from whence he addrefs'd himfelf to all of them Handing about him, putting them in mind of what great things were per- formed by the Valour of their Anceftors, rais'd their Hopes with the noble Rewards of Honour and Viftory, and difpell'd their Fears by all the Topicks that natural Courage could fuggefb. After this Harangue, the Ar- my gave a general Shout, and then charg'd the Enemy itoutly. This in the antient Lan- guage was caird Brofntchty Kjihy i. e. an In- centive to War. This Cuftom of fhouting aloud is belicvM to have taken its Rife from

an

Wefieni Jflands of Scotland. loj

Imlnftind of Nature, it being attributed to rnoft Nations that have been of a martial Ge. [jius : As by Homer to t\\Q Trojans^ by Tacitus to i:lie Germdns^ by Livj to tlie Gauls. Every great family inthelfles had a Chief Druid, who bretold future Events, and decided all Caufes Civil and Ecclefiaftical. It is reported of them ;hat they wrought in the Night-time, and rei^ ed all Day. Cxjar fays they worfhipp'd a Dei- :y under the name of Taramis, or Taran, which n H W//^ fignifies Thunder ; and in the antient Language of the HtghUnders^ Torm fignifies thunder alfo.

ANOTHER God of the Britons was Be- , or Beliniis^ which feems to have been thq Affyrian God Bely or Belm ; and probably from his Pagan Deity comes the Scots Term of Beltin^ the Day of il%, having its

[irft Rife from the Cufiiom praAis'd by the Druids in the Ifles, of extinguifhing all the Fires in the Parifh until the Tythes were paid -, ^nd upon payment of them, the Fires were kindled in each Family, and never till then. [n thofe days Malefaftors were burnt between two Fires ; hence when they would exprefs a Man to be in a great ftrait, they fay, he is between ttvo Fires of Bel, which in their Lan- guage they exprefs thus, Edir da hin Veml or Bel. Some obje8; that the Druids could not be in the Ifies, becaufe no Qaks grow itliere. To which I anfwer. That in thofe

days.

To6 [// D E S C R I P T I O N 0/ f^^

days Oaks did grow there, and to this day there be Oaks growing in fome of them, par- ticularly in Steat, the mo^ Southern part of the Ifle of Skie. The Houfes named after thofe Druids fhall be defcrib'd elfewhere.

THE manner of Drinking usM by the chief Men of the Ifles, is calFd in their Language Streahy i. e. a Round, ; for the Company fat in a Circle, the Cup-Bearer fiU'd the Drink round to them, and all was drank out, whatever the X^iquor was, whether ftrong or weak ; they continued drinking fometimes' twenty four, fometimes forty eight Hours : It was reckoned a piece of Manhood to drink until they became drunk, and there were two Men with a Bar- row attending pun£lually on fuch Occafions. They ftood at the Door until fome became drunk, and they carry'd them upon the Bar- row to Bed, and returnM again to their Poft as long as any continued freffi, and fo carry'd off the whole Company one by one as they be- came drunk. Several of my Acquaintance have been WitnefTes to this Cuftom of Drink- ing, but it is now abolifh'd.

AMONG Perfons of Diftini^ion it was reckon'd an Affront put upon any Company to broach a Piece of Wine, Ale, or J^uaviu, and not to fee it all drank out at one Meeting. If any Man chance to go out from the Com- pany, tho but for a few Minutes, he is ob-

Ifg'd

Wejiern IJlands of Scotland. 1 07

lig'd upon his Return, and before he take his Seat, to make an Apology for his Abfence in Rhyme ; which if he cannot perform, he is liable to fuch a fhare of the Reckoning as the Company thinks fit to impofe : which Cuftom obtains in many places ftil], and is call'd Beanchiy Bard, which in their Language fig- nifies the Poet's congratulating the Com- pany.

IT hath been an antient Cuftom in tliefe Ifles, and ftill continues, when any number of M?n retire into a Houfe, either to dif- courfe of ferious Bufmefs, or to pafs fome time in drinking ; upon thefe occafions the Poor of the Houfe ftands open, and a Rod is put crofs the fame, which is underftood to be a fign to all Perfons without diftindion not to approach : and if any fhould be fo rude as to take up this Rod, and come in uncalPd, he is fure to be no welcome Gueft ; for this is accounted fuch an Affront to the Company, that they are bound in honour to refent it ; and the Perfon offending may come to have his Head broken, if he do not meet with a harfher Reception.

THE Chieftain is ufually attended with a numerous Retinue when he goes a hunting the Deer, this being his firft Specimen of manly Exercife. All his Clothes, Arms, and Hunting-Equipage are, upon his Return from

the

1 oS ^Description of the

the Hills, given to the Forefter, according to Cuftom.

EVERY Family had commonly two Stew- ards, which in their Language were call'dj Mar^fchali Taeh : the firft of thefe ferv'd al- ways at home, and was oblig'd to be welli vers'd in the Pedegree of all the Tribes in the Illes, and in the Highlands of Scotland ; for it was his Province to aflign every Man at Ta- ble his Seat according to his Quality ; and this was done without one word fpeaking, only by drawing a Score with a white Rod which this JVhrifchall had in. his hand, before the Perfon who was bid by him to fit down : and this was neceffary to prevent Diforder and Conten- tion ; and tho the Marifcha/l might fometimes be miftaken, the Mafter of the Family in- curr'd no Cenfure by fuch an Efcape : but this Cuftom has been laid afide of late. They had alfo Cup-bearers, who always fill'd and carry'd the Cup round the Company, and he himfelf drank off the firft Draught. They had likewife Purfe-mafters, who kept their Mony. Both thefe OiEcers had an hereditary Right to their Office in Writing, and each of them had a Town and Land for his Service : fome of thofe Rights I have feen fairly written : on good Parcliment.

BESIDES the ordinary Rent paid by the Tenant to his Mafter, if a Cow brought ^

forth

! JVefteni Iflands of Scotland. 1 09

forth two Calves at a time, which indeed is extraordinary, or an Ewe two Lambs, which is frequent, the Tenant paid to the Maiter one of the Calves or Lambs; and the Mafter on his part was obliged, if any of his Tenants' Wives bore Twins, to take one of them, land- breed him in his own Family. 1 have known^ ■a Gentleman, who had fixteen of theie Xw'ins i in his Family at a time.

, THEIR antienr Leagues of Friend ;Mp- c iwere ratify'd by drinking a Drop of each o- )i ther's Blood, which was commonly drawn out siof the little Finger. This was religiouily ob- &;ferv'd as a facred Bond; and if any Perfoii i, after fuch an Alliance happen'd to violate the ;, fame, he was from that time reputed un- ; worthy of all honeft Mens Converfation. : Before Mony became current, the Chieftains

in the Ifles beftov/'d the Cow's Head, Feet, . and all the Entrails upon their Dependents; r fuch as the Phyfician, Orator, Poet, Bard, \i iMuficians, &c. and the fame was divided lei thus : the Smith had the Head, the Piper had

the, &c.

1; IT was an antient Cuftom among the ( Iflanders, to hang a He-Goat to the Boat's - Maft, hoping thereby to procure a favourable Wind : but this is not pra&is'd at prefent ; tho I am told it hath been done once by fome of fie .the Vulgar within thefe 1 5 Years laft paft. i ^ THEY

no ^Description of the

THEY had afi tutit^erfal Cuftom, of pour-' ' ing a Cow's Milk upon a little Hill, or big Stone, where the Spirit call'd Brorvny was be- : liev'd to lodg : this Spirit alv^ays appear'd in the fliapc of a tall Man,' having very long | brown Hair. There was fcarce any the leaft Village in which this fuperftitious Cuftom did not prevail. I enquired the reafon of it from feveral well-meaning Women, who, until of late, had pradlis'd it ; and they told nie,- that it had been tranfmitted to them by their An-^" ; ceftors fuccefs fully, who believ'd it was at- i tended with good Fortune, but the moft Cre- ' dulous of the Vulgar had now laid it afide. It was an ordinary thing among the Over-cu- rious to confult an invifible Oracle, concerning the Fate of Families, and Battles, &c. This was perform'd three different ways ; the firfl: was by a Company of Men, one of whom be- ing detach'd by Lot, was afterwards carry'd to a River, which was the Boundary between two Villages; four of the Company laid hold on him, and having fliut his Eyes, they took him by the Legs and Arms, and then tofting him to and again, ftruck his Hips with force againft the Bank. One of them cry'd outj^ What is it you have got here ? Another an- fwers, A Log of Birch-wood. The other cries agaifi, Let his invifible Friends appear from all quarters, and let them relieve him by giving an Anfwer to our prefent Demands : and in a

few^

■v Weft'crn Iflands of Scothriii. tit

few Minutes after, a number of little Crea- tures came from the Sea, who anfwer'd the Queftion, and difappear'd fuddenly. The Man was then fet at liberty, and they all return'd home, to take their Meafures according to the , jPredi6lion of their falfe Prophets ; but the poor I [deluded Fools were abufed, for the Anfwer was { |ftill ambiguous. This was always praftifed in the Night, and may literally be call'd the Works of Darknefs.

If I HAD an account from the mofl: intelli- gent and judicious Men in the Ifle of Skie^ that about fixty two Years ago, the Oracle was thus confulted only once, and that was in the Parifh of Kjlmarth, on the Eaft fide, by a wicked and mifchievous Race of People, who are now extinguifli'd, both Root and Branch.

THE fecond way of confulting the Oracle was by a Party of Men, who jfirft retir'd to folitary Places, remote from any Houfe, and there they fingled out one of their number, and wrapt him in a big Cow's Hide, which they folded about him : his whole Body was co- ver'd with it except his Head, and fo left in this pofture all night, until his invifible Friends jreliev'd him, by giving a proper Anfwer to the Queftion in hand ; which he receiv'd, as he fancy'd, from feveral Perfons that he found a- jbout him all that time. His Conforts return'd

to

112 ^Description of the

to him at Break of Day, and then he commu- nicated his News to them ; which often prov'd fatal to thole concern'd in fuch unwarrantable Enquiries.

THERE was a third way of confulting. which was a Confirmation of the fecond a- bove-mention'd. The fame Company who put tlie Man into the Hide, took a live Cat and put him on a Spit ; one of the number was employed to turn the Spit, and one of his Con- forts enquir'd of him, What are you doing i He aniwer'd, I roaft this Cat, until his Friend? anfwer the Queftion ; which muft be the fame that was propos'd by the Man fliut up in the Hide. And afterwards a very big Cat comes, attended by a number of leffer Cats, defiring to relieve the Cat turn'd upon the Spit, and then anfwers the Qiieltion. If this Anfwer prov'd the fame that was given to the Man ini the Hide, then it was taken as a Confirmation of the other, which in this cafe was believ'di infallible.

Mr. Jlex.mder Cooper^ prefent Minifter oJi North-Vijiy told me, that one "Jchn Erach in the Ifle of Lewis alTur'd him, it was his Fate to have been led bv his Curiofity with fome who confulted this Oracle, and that he was a Night within the Hide, as above mentioned ; during which time he felt and heard fuch ter- rible things, that he conld not exprefs them :

the

Weflern Iflands of Scotland. i i ^

ithe Impreffion it made on him was fuch as could never go off, and he faid that for a thou- fand Worlds he would never again be con- cern'd in the like performance, for this had dif- order'd him to a high degree. He confefs'd It ingenuoully, and with an Air of great Re- norfe, and feem'd to be very penitent under a ufl: Senfe of fo great a Crime : he declared this iibout five Years (ince, and is ftill living in the 'Lems^ for any thing I know. The Inhabitants lere did alio make ufe of a Fire call'd Tin-EgWy . e, a forced Fire, or Fire of neceility ; which I'heyufed as an Antidote againft the Plague It Murrain in Cattel ; and it was performed hus : All the Fires in the Parifh were extin- uifh'd, and then eighty one marryM Men, be- ig thought the neceffary number for effeding his Defign, took two great Planks of Wood, nd nine of '^m were employed by turns, who y their repeated Efforts rubb'd one of the ianks againft the other until the Heat thereof reduced Fire ; and from this forc'd Fire each amily is fupply'd with new Fire, which is no )oner kindled, than a Pot full of Water is uickly fet on it, and afterwards fprinkled upon le People infefted with the Plague, or upon jae Cattle that have the Murrain. And this iiey all fay they find fuccefsful by Experience : J was prailis'd in the main Land, oppofite to -fie ■South of Skkj within thefe thirty Years.

H THEY

114 L/ Description of tk

THEY preferve their Boundaries from be | iiig liable to any Debates by their SuccefTors thus: They lay a quantity of the Afhes of burn Wood in the Ground, and put big Stones abov the fame ; and for conveying the knowledg c this to Pofterity, they carry fome Boys fror both Villages next the Boundary, and thei whip 'em foundly, which they will be fure t remember, and tell it to their Children. Debate having rifen betwixt the Villages ^ Ofe and Groban in Skie^ they found Afhes ; above mention'd under a Stone, which d cided the Controverfy. It was an antient Ci tom in the Iflands, that a Man fhould take Maid to his Wife, and keep her the fpace a Year without marrying her ; and if f] pleafed him all the while, he marry'd her,, the end of the Year, and legitimated the Children : but if he did not love her, he i| turn'd her to her Parents, and her Portion aid and if there happened to be any Children, thi were kept by the Father : but this unreafonat Cuftom was long ago brought in difufe.

h

[fc:

■it

I T is common in thefe Illands, when a % nant dies, for the Maifer to have his choice^ all the Horfes which belong'd to the Deceas' and tills was call'd the Eachfidn HorizeiU i. e. a Lord's Gift : for the firil: ufe of it w frojii a Gift of a Horfe granted by all the Su

jefts in ScotLmd for relieving King

fro

peat

k iel

Weflern Iflands of Scotland. 1 1 5

from his Imprifonment in England. There was another Duty payable by all the Tenants to their Chief, tho they did not liv^e upon his Lands ; and this is call'd Cdpich : there was a ftanding Law for it alfo, call'd Calpich-L3.w; and I am informed that this is exa6led by fome in the main Land to this day.

WOMEN were antiently deny'd the ufe of Writing in the Iflands, to prevent Love-In* trigues : their Parents believ'd, that Nature was too skilful in that matter, and needed not :he help of Education ; and therefore that Writing would be of dangerous confequence 0 the weaker Sex.

THE Orators, in their Language call'd 7/^ ^ane^ were in high efteem both in thefe Iflands ,nd the Continent ; until within thefe forty fears, they fat always among the Nobles and [Chiefs of Families in the Streah or Circle. Their loufes and little Villages were Sanftuaries, as irell as Churches, and they took place before f|)b6lors of Phyfick. The Orators, after the )ruids were extinQ:, were brought in to pre- :brve the Genealogy of Families, and to re- peat the fame at every Succeflion of a Chief; ad upon the occafion of Marriages and Births^ ley made EphhaUmiums and Panegyricks^ which jie Poet or Bard pronounc'd. The Orators by le force of their Eloquence had a powerful •fcendant over the greateft Men in their H 2 time;

ii5 ^Description of the

time ; for if any Orator did but ask the Ha- bit, Arms, Horfe, or any other thing belong- ing to the greateft Man in thefc Iflands, it was readily granted them, fometimes out of re- fpedl, and fometimes for fear of being ex- claim'd againft by a Satire, which in thofe days was reckoned a great difiionour : but thefe Gentlemen becoming infolent, loft ever fmce both the Profit and Efteem which was formerly due to their Charafter ; for neither their Panegyricks nor Satires are regarded tg wliac they have been, and they are now al- lowM but a fmall Salary. I muft not omit tc relate their way of Study, which is very fmgu- lar : They fliut their Doors and Windows for a day's time, and lie on their backs, with a Stom upon their Belly, and Plads about their Heads and their Eyes being cover'd, they pump theii Brains for Rhetorical Encomium or Panegy rick ; and indeed they furnifh fuch a Stile frott this dark Cell, as is underftood by very few and if they purchafe a couple of Horfes as th( Reward of their Meditation, they think thei have done a great matter. The Poet, or Barfl liud a Title to the Bridegroom's upper Garfc that is, the Plad and Bonnet ; but now he j Litisfy'd with what the Bridegroom pleafesD give him on fuch occafions.

THERE was an antient Cuftom in th nlaad ot Letpis, to make a fiery Circle aboii the Hoiifes, Corn, Cattle, 6^c. belonging t

eac

Weftern I/lands of Scotland. i i 7

' t each particular Family : A Man carry'd Fire

in his right hand, and went round, and it was

caird DeJJtl, from the right Hand, which in

the antient Language is calFd Defs, An In-

iftance of this Round was performed in the

nVillage Shadir in Lervi^^ about fixteen years

ago (as I was told)' but it proved fatal to the

Pracl:ifer, calPd Mdc-Callum ; for after he had

;|carefully performed this Round, that very

[Night following he and his Family were fadly

ifurpriz'd, and all his Houfes, Corn, Cattle,

\&c. were confumed with Fire. This fuper-

iftitious Cuftom is quite abolifh'd now, for there

jias not been above this one Inftance of it in

brty Years paft,

THERE is another way of thQDefftl, or iprying Fire round about Women before they m churched, after Child-bearing ; and it is [fed likewife about Children until they be briften'd : both which are perform'd in the idorning and at Night. This is only prac- ifed now by fome of the antient Midwives :

enquired their Reafons for this Cuftom, vhich I told them was altogether unlawful ; his difoblig'd them mightily, infomuch that ;hey would give me no fatisfadion. But thers, that were of a more agreeable Temper, old me the Fire-round was an effectual means o preferve both the Mother and the Infant rom the power of evil Spirits, who are ready tt fuch times to do mifchief, and fometimes H 3 carry

ii8 ^Description of the

carry away the Infant ; and when they get them once in their pofTeflion, return them poor meagre Skeletons : and thefe Infants are laid to have voracious Appetites, conftantly craving for Meat. In this cafe it was ufual with thofe who believ'd that their Children were thus taken away, to dig a Grave in the Fields upon Quarter-Day, and there to lay the Fairy Skeleton till next Morning ; at which time the Parents went to the place, where they doubted not to find their own Child inftead of this Skeleton. Some of the